Shower Pump fitting advice please (photos attached)

[simy]

Hi,

Very nice to find a plumbing forum

To make this easier I've taken some photos and placed them here.

My initial thought was to place the pump by the cylinder as shown in the picture. Run pipe A (cold feed) back down to the pump cold inlet and then back up from the outlet to the shower so it stays independent. For the hot, disconnect it from point b and run it back to the pump's hot outlet. Then take the hot feed to the pump inlet from point D.

I've had a chap come round to give me a quote and he suggested placing the pump on the floor between point A & B in order to keep the cost down. Would this work correctly and how much should I expect to pay?

If he runs the pipes back down to the cylinder so it's fitted as I mentioned above how much should it cost? Would it work?

Thanks in advance for any help/advice/suggestions.
Simon

 

[namsag]

Shower pump will not have head to work if its put where the guy says . put it in the airing cupboard where you thought take, cold feed from big tank that A is attached to prefrebaly on a seperate connector that is lower than the cold feed to the cylinder so that if a long shower is being had hot will run out before cold to stop scalding. take hot feed for shower from at least 6 inches below the tee piece just after point D that way it wont pull air down the open vent when on.

 

[simy]

Hi namsag,

Thanks very much for your advice. I hadn't thought of the scalding problem.

I've added point d* to the last picture, where I think you advise I should take hot feed from?

Cheers
Simon

 

[namsag]

YEP thats the place.

 

[ChrisR]

WHy shouldn't the hot suck air conected there namsag - I've done it and had sucking air, and come across many others. Otherwise why have Surrey, Essex, Warix, etc etc flanges?

 

[namsag]

Because if your not going to use any of said flanges this is where all manufacturers recommend the hot to be taken from. It must be the first draw of after the cylinder and be at least 6 inches below open vent tee. This is a diy site and it is far easier to advise people to tee in there than risk them damaging cylinders putting flanges in. A lot of air problems with showers are not caused by them pulling air down the open vent but by the water in the cylinder being too hot and cavatation occuring in the pump,cylinder stat should not be set above 60c and dependent on position on cylinder even lower. Older gravity systems have a lot of problems with this as there is very little control on water temp. Personally never had a problems from teeing in there

 

[ChrisR]

My experience is that if the cylinder feed id the usual 22mm, teeing into the pipe as described means only a very low flow can be drawn without sucking air. I've been to several where I've added an Essex flange to solve the problem. Which is easy to fit if you can use a hole saw!

Th reason Mira et al don't recommend flanges is that it's thoretically possible to suck enough air that the electric immersion heater could be exposed. But they aren't used in many pumped shower installations. If you press them about sucking air Mira go on about the cyl feed size.