Shower Pump pipe locations - any help appreciated

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Hi All,

Been a while since i posted on here.

I have moved to a new house and i am in the process of fitting a new en-suite. Currently there is a supajet recessed pump fitted in situ in the wall, quite neat i guess but not pretty!!

I want to install a new shower pump in the airing cupboard but don't know how to get the water to the shower in the ensuite? I am assuming that i cannot connect to the existing supply as it is probably feeding the taps in the sink in the same room.

So i was wondering if it is possible to site the pump in the airing cupboard and run new piping up through the attic and back down into the ensuite? Does this create any back pressure issues with the pump?

I would rather this root than under the floor boards as i have just had new carpets fitted due to insurance leak from attic water storage.

Any help appreciated :)
 
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Surprised nobody's answered, so fwiw, I will!

Cannot see a problem provided you're drawing out of a tank via an essex or surrey flange rather than the main feed. You may want a bleed vent at the upper part of the 'n', preferably off a short vertical spur to allow the air to collect and seperate.

Other than that, can't think of a problem, certainly not on the pressure switching side.

On your existing setup:
It's unusual for a shower pump to be connected to the basin taps, quite intrusive if you want a glass of water in the night so you could spur off that, but if two people are having a shower at the same time expect complaints.
 
Wasn't here at the weekend so missed this initially. You could use the same feed pipe work but you will need a pump suitable for whole house use (not all are) as you will effectively be powering the piped system after the pump, probably the whole house; this could be a problem for other appliances connected to the system which aren’t suitable for a high pressure supply so you need to check. As stated, the problem is that the pump will kick in every time you turn on a H/W tap; & cold if it’s tank fed but sink/hand basin cold water taps should be on mains pressure; if it’s not don’t drink it! Pump switching can be a problem in the middle of the night & they are not as quiet as the manufacturers would have you believe. In a moment of madness, I actually fitted a whole house pump on my own system when I replaced it all some years ago but the pump makes such a racket that we only turn it on when showering, gravity works fine for us at all other times. Be careful with up & over pipe work loops; you will need to auto vent the top of the loops or you’ll constantly be bleeding the system to get rid of air locks & if you run the pipes any closer than around 600mm from the bottom of the CWS tank you could potentially be in a negative head situation requiring a more expensive pump to suit; you will need a minimum gravity flow rate of around 1 litre/min at the shower head for a positive head pump to kick in & function reliably. Run both pump feeds from the tanks as direct & as short as possible in 22mm not 15mm; the CW feed should be located at the opposite end of the tank to the tank inlet. Preferably use 22mm from the pump to the shower head, reducing to 15mm after the mixer; but it will depend what shower mixer/heads you have & what performance you expect from the system. For the HW supply fit a side entry Essex flange if you can, it’s by far the best method of ensuring a relatively air free supply from the storage cylinder. Use bends rather than elbows & only use full bore isolation valves (lever operated), most gate valves aren’t full bore & will restrict flow rate.
 
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Hi all,

Can someone please advise how i would go about self venting the output from the shower pump as advised above? Bearing in mind the output is going into the attic.
 
With up & over pipe loops, you still need to vent regardless of the type of flange you have (side entry Essex flange is best) or air will accumulate, particularly in the HW line; fit the auto vents in the highest part of the pipe loops.
 

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