Sink adapters.

[ray316]

Can a advanced diy'er or plumber help me out here.
I have just put a new sink tap on with tails that were only hand tight as l couldn't get to tighten them with anything the other end of the flexible hose is a female end, so what do l need to get to connect to the 15mm copper pipe at the bottom of my sink unit...
Is there a long flexible hose l could connect from the female end to the pipe..

 

[Gas2Air]

Can a advanced diy'er or plumber help me out here.
I have just put a new sink tap on with tails that were only hand tight as l couldn't get to tighten them with anything the other end of the flexible hose is a female end, so what do l need to get to connect to the 15mm copper pipe at the bottom of my sink unit...
Is there a long flexible hose l could connect from the female end to the pipe..

15mm Isolation valve on the copper, take nut off the other end and connect hoses.

 

[ray316]

15mm Isolation valve on the copper, take nut off the other end and connect hoses.

There is no nut on the flexible hose end it is inset thread , l thought that is a female end.

 

[Gas2Air]

You have the wrong hoses then. Take nut off iso valve. Take a picture.

 

[ray316]

Same as these, so l need to connect from flexible end to 15mm copper pipe

 

[Madrab]

15mm Isolation valve on the copper, take nut off the other end and connect hoses.

Yup, and g2a alreay explained what you ned to do. Don't tighten them much more than hand tight or the rubber seal will burst, 1/2 turn with an adjustable or use a flat file and flatten the edges of the ISO first.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Nooooo don't put them straight onto the valve - the washer will be sliced.

Use these.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLu21IqdztcCFa4B0wodHC8Otw

 

[Madrab]

Using a flat file and flatten the edges of the ISO first ....

As it's is nice soft brass and if you run the valve end square down the file and not the file over the end, it leaves a lovely flat face and doesn't cut the washer ... have found it works a treat.

Of course if you in the suppliers and they have them then of course the adapters are cleaner but it's just another join to leak and if you fit lots and lots

 

[ray316]

Getting a bit confused now, so can someone tell me what flexible hose l need .
Where the isolating valve goes , is it on the copper pipe then flexible pipe to tap hose.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Valve on pipe. Adaptor from my link in valve. Flexi onto adapter.

 

[ray316]

Valve on pipe. Adaptor from my link in valve. Flexi onto adapter.

Thanks, and what flexible hose will l need...

 

[flameport]

what flexible hose will l need...

The ones you already have.

 

[oldbuffer]

If your problem is that the supplied flexible hoses are not long enough then:

1. Buy a length of 15mm copper pipe, a pipe slice and two 15mm / 1/2" male irons (they are made of brass). (E.g. screwfix 69358). Plus two isolating valves if required.
2. If the end of the house pipe work already has isolating valves on hot and cold, ignore next step.
3. Clean existing hot and cold pipes and fit an isolating valve to each.
4. Loosely fit 1/2" end of irons to flexible hoses.
4. Measure distance from 15mm end of irons to isolating valves, allowing for insertion into iron and into isolating valve. Make sure this will not leave flexible hoses kinked or strained.
5. Cut new pipe to length with pipe slice. (You could use a hacksaw, but would have to cut square and file off any internal or external burrs.)
6. Fit pipe and tighten all nuts. Should be firm hand tight plus about 1/2 turn. New fittings shouldn't need any joint sealant, but if you want some extra assurance, use Jet-Lube V2 around olives.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Text book example if. Why not to use a standard valve :

 

[Hot&Cold]

1/2 x 15mm Tap tail adaptors,worth the extra few quid (£2.40)