size of door lining for internal oak door frame

[happyhero]

Hi I am hoping to change my internal pine door linings and doors to Oak, I have removed the first one and the existing lining is nearly 30mm thick, what size should they be if in Oak please?

Oak seems very expensive so i don't want to buy thicker than necessary but at the same time I don't want to spend a load of money but find I have cut corners and it is not a quality job.

Any info appreciated.

 

[HERTS P&D]

30mm?

Is this a trick question?

Andy

 

[happyhero]

30mm?

Is this a trick question?

Andy

No it is not a trick question, I am thinking that Oak is stronger than pine and so maybe you can use thinner than 30mm and also pine being cheap, and the fact that these frames date from the 1930's when the house was built that they maybe they just put them in at that size as that is what they had or they didn't worry about them being extra thick, or maybe they did stuff differently then, so I am wondering if 30mm is the norm or was it a bit of overkill, I've never done a door lining before, so hence the probably basic questions.

 

[foxhole]

If you make the door lining thinner and are fitting standard door sizes you will have gaps all round?

 

[happyhero]

If you make the door lining thinner and are fitting standard door sizes you will have gaps all round?

Ok I have been googling and I am even more confused now. I was thinking to buy the Oak so I could cut the linings and jams out of one piece of wood as it seemed a bit cheaper and easier that way to get the right sizes to mimic what was there before but this actually works out to about £130 just for the casing and jams with no architrave so then I looked at buying door linings with jams and no architraves and several places sell this for anything from £69 up so Oak frames for half the price but I notice that nearly all the ready cut frames are only 22mm thick, will this be ok as I am after putting a proper solid oak door in the frame not a vaveneeredr engineered door?

Also I measured my existing door frame before I removed it and it was the common size more or less (1981mm x 762mm) so I would like to keep to that size for ease etc. I understand what you say about if the frame is thinner wood I will have gaps but don't they just pack behind the frame one side to ensure the gap is correct or is this not a good idea?

If I go from 30mm frames to 22mm then I assume I could pack out 8mm to compensate, would I do this one side (8mm) or both sides (4mm each side)? What is the recommended way to do this packing if this is acceptable?

My walls are breeze block so when I removed the frame they are quite rough although overall there is a flatness where the frame touched the breeze block/mortar etc so they sat well on this surface despite the roughness.

 

[pinenot]

Assuming your replacement doors are of the exact same size the door frames (linings) will have to finish the same size around the door, so replacing 30 mm with say 22 mm, would require you to pack the posts at the fixings (resultant gap of 16 mm) leave a gap of 16 mm each side, which can be covered with the facing, either the existing ones or new...pinenot