Skim bead showing through plaster?

[Mr. Clueless]

Ok the image i'm attaching is only a few weeks old.
but we have other skim beading showing through plaster that is a couple of years old. Not as dark but still showing.

Is this normal?

I would have to guess yes since 2 different plasterers have ended up with this result.

Which leads me then on to the question of painting - can it be painted over as normal or do you need to get some stain block paint that's suitable for plaster?

Oh nearly forgot - the photo....

 

[London Mike 49]

When it is fully dried, I think if it was me I would feather out a coat of filler on the corner and mist coat as normal.
It's just my opinion though

Good luck
Mike

 

[stevethespreader]

No its not normal its shoddy work but as mike says run some easifill down it

 

[Mr. Clueless]

Having filled cracks that have appeared, there's nothing for fill to actually stick to with this. The plaster over the bead is smooth - you can't feel the bead at all. It's just the markings where the holes in the beads are.

I've had 3 plasters at the house. The first 2 left beads like you saw above.

This is another corner that was done...



I don't know whether these guys were experienced or not, but they were 'older' shall we say.

The final guy is in his early 20s & did the chimney breast & left his corners like the following...




What i obviously want to avoid is it showing through paint work. Now if you know from experience that it'll 100% without a doubt show through, then i'll have to get it sorted & i'll not waste my time painting yet. But if painting it & layering up may cover it then i'll give it a go.

 

[stevethespreader]

Looks like the middle PIC could do with a skim it looks like there's hardly any skim on that wall, I can see blemishes and marks and it looks like the beads not been filled out on all three pics you defo won't get away with just paint

 

[Mr. Clueless]

the beads not been filled out on all three pics

I remember asking about the bead being left like that on a plastering forum some years ago after the very first job as i was concerned about it.

I was told, unanimously, that i was overreacting & that you shouldn't plaster over the nose of the bead.

And now it should be?

At any rate, what should be used to cover the markings of the bead showing through? It looks wet but it isn't. It's dry. It's also been like that for 4 months with the middle pic being like that for 3 years or so.

 

[stevethespreader]

The nose of the bead should grin through nice and clean with no plaster on it I wasn't talking about that

 

[stevethespreader]

I was talking about all the blemishes that litter your plasterwork

 

[Mr. Clueless]

Oh right, well the ceiling was done by the first set of guys too & the plasterwork for that appeared no different to the plasterwork they did on the walls & the ceiling has covered (paint) perfectly fine so i'm not worried about that.

It's the beads & how to treat them that i'm concerned about.

I've googled & there's a shout for Zinsser BIN, but then this showing through top coats, plus with it going direct on to plaster & plaster needing sealing, do you mist coat & then apply BIN (or an alternative) or just apply direct to bare plaster?

 

[roy c]

Usually the only reason a bead and plaster stay that colour is that there is moisture present in the wall .Is there any way that damp is not drying out in that area? It might be worth putting an hair dryer on a dark area and see if the colour changes, Dont have the hair dryer on full power just gently move it around the area.Maybe try it on the bottom of the bead/wall..

 

[noseall]

Bead staining is usually down to how the plaster dries in this location. Being metal means that it will sustain the curing time and attract condensation etc. Unless you can feel the difference then I would not worry.

However, there are instances where beads have been fixed with a little too much spread resulting in a very thin layer of skim. This can be a problem if the metal below is allowed to react to temperature changes, i.e. cracking and shedding etc.

One other problem that can occur regards a stud corner is that when wet timber has dried out, this can result in cracking down the bead and is nothing to do with the quality of the plastering.

 

[Mr. Clueless]

Ah i can confirm that there's no stud cornering here then.

I'll get the hair dryer on it & take a see.

What should be done regards painting it though?

 

[roy c]

What type of floor is it?.lf it is a solid floor then it might be damp. Have you any pipes around that area?

 

[Mr. Clueless]

Suspended wooden floor

And nope, no pipes there.

The hairdryer also didn't do anything.

What about that Zinsser Bullseye 123? I had a look and at first i thought Zinsser BIN but the 123 looks more promising.

I've experienced the BIN & it's good, but i'm not convinced it's the best thing for this. I don't know how good the 123 is but on paper i think it's perhaps more suitable?

 

[roy c]

IF i was unsure about it (Which I am ) I would knock it all off and redo it, but then again that wouldn't be a problem for me so decision time for you on what you are going to do about the replies you are getting....