Skim with or without architrave on

[chriselevate]

My lounge is being reskimmed. I’ve removed the skirting board in preparation (needed to be done as a solid floor is going down) but I’m wondering whether the architrave (on two doors) should come off too.

I know the architrave will provide a nice edges for the plasterer to work to but when the new skirting is fitted surely it won’t be flush with the existing architrave?

What is done in this situation please?

 

[Nige F]

What I do is fix some 2mm thick stripwood to the frame instead of the architrave. The plasterer then skims to this. Then the architrave goes back on top of the flat plaster/wood. With no stripwood or architrave the plaster would have to bend to the frame by c.2mm

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks Nige. Something like this available from wickes for example? Are you meaning you pin this strip to where the inner edge of the architrave currently is so the new fit or architrave is stepped back from this again? Any tips or suggestions please? Thanks.

 

[stevethespreader]

If you have taken the skirting off you may as well take the architrave off and have the spread skim up to the door frame no point in messing around it will also be easier to lay the floor and fit the architrave on top along with the skirting instead of having to cut the achitrave and profiling of floor

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks Steve. I’ve lost you a bit there though mate. Skirting is off yeah. So taking off the architrave, where would the plasterer skip up to? Do I need so 2mm strips etc? Not sure how new architrave can sit in the new plaster as there’ll be a gap won’t there? Thanks.

 

[stevethespreader]

Thanks Steve. I’ve lost you a bit there though mate. Skirting is off yeah. So taking off the architrave, where would the plasterer skip up to? Do I need so 2mm strips etc? Not sure how new architrave can sit in the new plaster as there’ll be a gap won’t there? Thanks.

no there wont be a gap he will be skimming up to the door frame and it will be tapered off so the skim is flush with the frame its done as standard

 

[stevethespreader]

no there wont be a gap he will be skimming up to the door frame and it will be tapered off so the skim is flush with the frame its done as standard

Sorry was thinking wrong it's reskim I was thinking of f&s go with Niges option

 

[roy c]

I too thought the same as you Steve (missed the "re skim" bit)..!!

 

[Gerrydelasel]

no there wont be a gap he will be skimming up to the door frame and it will be tapered off so the skim is flush with the frame its done as standard

That's a big assumption. If he tapers then you may have an annoyingly non-flat surface when you refit the architrave. If he doesn't taper than you will end up with a gap between the architrave and frame which will need filling.

Edit: oh you already spotted it was a reskim

 

[stevethespreader]

That's a big assumption. If he tapers then you may have an annoyingly non-flat surface when you refit the architrave. If he doesn't taper than you will end up with a gap between the architrave and frame which will need filling.

Fit the 2-3mm strip wood like Nige said, so the platerer has a level to skim to. That way you're sure.

Think you should read before you post

 

[Gerrydelasel]

Think you should read before you post

Like you did, you mean?

 

[Nige F]

What is done in this situation please?

Listen to me

 

[stevethespreader]

Like you did, you mean?

I spotted my mistake I dident need anyone to point it out like you did

 

[chriselevate]

So taper the skim around the doorframe or use some stripwood around the frame to plaster up to?

Thanks

 

[Nige F]

That's your options Chris - When I encountered the tapered wall, being a pedant, I tapered the back of the architrave with a jackplane. The next one I did with the stripwood. This was for 1 or 2 doors. Not a whole house