Skirting and thick pile carpet

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I've only painted skirting with either no carpet, or rarely with a pretty thin/low pile carpet. We have this super thick carpet here, do people:

1. Masking tape on the carpet? (sounds like it would seep under it and be a hideous mess)
2. Use strong card, keep moving it along making sure not to let any paint run over the underside
3. Something else

The carpet looks to be fitted very tightly, and the door bars aren't screw in types either, so I fear lifting it might end up with it going back looking a bit crappy.
 
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well i use an old piece of venesian blind as its curved (but i cut in paint) and move it along, but in your case the pile will spring back up and stick to wet paint. So i would put down wide tape to hold down pile, then my piece of blind as usual. but cut in dont ram brush down to floor, as when dry and pile springs back you wont see cut in line.
 
Very helpful thanks, I hadn't thought of a belt and braces approach, I'll do some testing behind where the bed goes me thinks! Cheers
 
Take carpet up not an option? Use paint that won't yellow over time.
 
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Take carpet up not an option? Use paint that won't yellow over time.
It may well be, but I suspect not - I certainly don't fancy it on the stairs next to the stringer.

btw - I assume it's the same Wayners from HUKD forums since you often chip in on similar threads on there?

Paint wise, I'm thinking Dulux *trade* satin wood at the moment. I posted a thread on this yesterday, but it's probably too dull for anyone to bother replying lol
 
I use masking tape and if you apply it right, leaving a little extra on the skirting board edge, there's enough to push down and go under the skirting.
 
So sort of apply it at say 45 degree angle then flattening down on to the carpet. Or applying flat but leaving a bit you could push down with say a plastic ruler or something (I happen to have one in front of me on my desk, looks like it'd work!)
 
Tesa 3 day 50mm masking is best bet.
Just keep replacing when needed.
Rest of carpet use roll and stroll either contract or premium. That tends to hold better than tape and see how you go. I use all the time now vs sheets. There are fleece materials you can lay on stairs if you prefer and correx board on hall and landing floors.
As for paint. There are better and easier paints to use. Don't be put on off by higher prices. You get what you pay for.

Do use a adhesion primer.
Do clean surface. So important to clean.
@ChilliBob yeah. It's me.
Same people pop up all over the place. So few of us too vs the amount that could contribute. If I had time again I'd be more anonymous with accounts.
 
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Cool - I'll bear that in mind, I know the cheap stuff is no good - too tacky often (I used the trick of putting it on my clothes first to 'de tack it' lol.

Never seen that roll and stroll - just looked on tool station, interesting, I thought I was upgrading by getting one of their plastic backed dust sheets for 10 quid - I used to use old duvet covers :eek: (yep, they seep through, terrible idea usually!)

What white satin for wood do you recommend then?

Adhesion primer? - Is that necessary if it's already satin, a good job was done, and it's keyed using 180 grit? - I used Zinsser in our old place when the base was horrific

Clean, yep, I tend to fill/sand/clean.

I thought it must be - ha ha I know what you mean, I tend to use only 2-3 variants.
 
Wb satin over Wb satin is fine. No need for primer
 
Cool, I thought so, well, I need to assess if it's water or oil based satin they have put on I guess. Down the shed there's 5l of trade Valspar satinwood (wb) and 2.5l of Dulux (not trade) Satinwood, ob.

I've just found out I can rub some alcohol on it and see if the paint comes off - if so, wb, if not ob!
 
Hmm, well some nail polish remover on a door architrave and skirting (in different rooms) didn't seem to do anything, for a control a bit on a wall did come off. Odd. I wonder where this 5l of wb has been used then :/

So, I guess ob, or better still sand, prime, wb. If the latter, perhaps my Zinzzer Permawhite with built in primer might work once the ob satin is sanded
 
Cellulose paint thinner will make water based paints bubble up. Meths or alcohol will soften them. Off hand, I don't recall trying acetone. Acetone is used to break down shellac/alcohol based finishes (as is household ammonia).
 
Cheers, yeah I only had a choice of nail polish remover, vodka or hand sanitiser to use - so I opted for the nail polish remover!

I've since ordered some meths along with a tin of Zinsser 123 and Dulux Satinwood trade, so I'll test, key, prime if necessary, and paint.
 

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