Skirting Board Woes

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Hello forum,

I replaced all the skirting boards in my flat recently. I used a fully finished white skirting board from Wickes.

Well...I hoped it would be straightforward - lots of nice 45 degree mitres, some scribed joints and glue the whole lot on to the walls. Bish bash bosh, job done.

Not quite. It's all fitted now but in places needed screwing/pinning to the wall, leaving some screw holes. The instructions with the boards said that they were colour matched to Wickes pure brilliant white satinwood paint...but they aren't.

I took a chunk of the board to Homebase, thinking they could do a colour match for me so that I had something to paint over the screw holes with (after filling of course), but it didn't work. The scanner wouldn't recognise the colour (not sure why).

I'm not sure what to do now. The fallback option I suppose is to paint the whole lot - every inch of every board. But that's a big job and seems OTT when it's only some small areas that need attention. Can I hope to get a colour match some other way?

Thanks,
Alan.
 
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Seems you are paying the penalty for buying crap from wickes , very ambitious to expect you can fit finished skirting without having to recoat.
 
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It's something you don't always think about, the need to touch up problems, but Wickes should be aware of how to deal with repairs, so have a chat with them, and ask for a tin of paint to reo the lot if they can't provide the match. I'm starting to use adhesive foam for skirting boards; very quick and easy.
 
It's something you don't always think about, the need to touch up problems, but Wickes should be aware of how to deal with repairs, so have a chat with them, and ask for a tin of paint to reo the lot if they can't provide the match. I'm starting to use adhesive foam for skirting boards; very quick and easy.
I've got to fit some skirting back on to dot and dab wall and was going to use No Nails or equivalent - is adhesive foam better than that?
 
Much better, but more expensive. You either need a foam gun, and a cleaner, or you reckon to waste the rest of can with a nozzle. Adhesive foam will go off in about 4 minutes, and you have to learn how much to put on, as too much will push the board out, but you can put the board on, take it off, and then put it back on, and that sqaushes the expansion bubbles. No nails and such can take about 20 minutes to go off, and you've got to be able to hold it in place whilst it does. But it's no good if the wall twists; then you need to be able to screw as well.
 
They are designed in a similar way to a paint spraying gun but have a spring loaded ball bearing at entry and trigger pulls a tight fitting pin to release from nozzle, foam stays 'wet' while in gun and cans can be changed at will, spray cleaner in a can with same fixing allows you to spray thru to clean the gun occasionally, though only needed is you don't intend to use for a while.
You can use disposable tips of plastic hose which allow you better access to tight spots [CAN always has to be inverted during use] but quite simple to clean off any dried foam at the tip .Have used gun after no use for 5-6 weeks and still works fine with no sign of blockages.
Carburettor cleaner for cars also make a good cleaner dissolves foam instantly.
 
I've used 3 different adhesive foams so far, and they all worked differently; some seem to expand more than others, so you need to experiment with them to see how they work. I saw an interesting range up at one of the trade shows recently (forgotten the name though) that had a green foam that expanded, and then shrank, and gripped in about 90 seconds.
 
We recommend gripfill as an adhesive.

In regards to the original post. They should be able to provide a touch up pot to allow you to cover small areas.
 
Fixing foam instead of expanding foam will expand far less, which may help?
 
OK, I bought one of these and I only now figure out that you have buy cans that are designed for use in a gun.
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