Slate Tiling Kitchen Floor - Advice Please

[b1rdman]

Hi

Just had a new kitchen fitted and have found the advice on these forums very helpful so thanks to all who contribute. Anyway better cut to the chase…

The time has come to get the new kitchen floor down. I’ve purchased some nice African Silver Blue slate (riven, straight edge) which is being delivered soon and as I like to get my hands dirty and save a few quid have decided to lay it myself.

However, never one to do things by half have added to the challenge by going for three different size of slates to create a more interesting pattern. I’m after some specific advice really and to help I’ve drawn up a plan which is shown below.

This is what I know:

1. Area to be tiled is 7 m2 (I’ve ordered tiles for 8 m2)
2. Tile sizes are 300 x 300, 400 x 400 & 600 x 400

3. I’m tiling up to the floor units feet and also in the spaces where the fridge/freezer and washing machine/dishwasher are. The green line in my plan marks these areas.

4. The floor is screed and it is level if a bit rough to the touch.
5. I’ll be using StainStop MN to seal tiles

This is what I don’t know:

1. Primer – To use or not to use (screed floor) ?

2. Adhesive – the supplier of tiles recommends and also supplies Biscem although I’ve read that many people recommend BAL. Which should I go for in your opinion?

3. Grout – Should I use epoxy as this is a kitchen? (I want a dark grey as think this will look best with slate)

4. Tiling Tools – I haven’t got any! What should I buy?

5. I understand I will also need a diamond cutter - will the Plasplugs Diamond Wet Saw that every DIY shed sells be up to the job? Should I consider something else? (will be doing wall tiles next)

I know there is a lot there but any advice on all ( ) or indeed any of these points will be much appreciated

 

[nellyb]

In answer to your questions.

1 Prime floor as per adhesive manufacturers instructions if required.

2 Biscem adhesive is a reputable brand as is BAL. Biscem probably cheaper. Whichever you get ensure a thick bed can be achieved(upto 12mm) to compensate for difference in thickness between individual tiles which you can often get with rivened slate. Use a fast/rapid setting adhesive that can be walked on after 2-3 hours. Prior to starting try to grade the slate in order of thickness.

3 Steer away from epoxy grout particularly with rivened slate. Just go for a single part flexible floor grout in say a charcoal colour. Prior to grouting make sure you apply at least one coat of protective impregnator such as HG Impregnator (natural look), HG Marble Impregnator (enhances colour of stone) or Lithofin Stainstop. After the grout is dry/cleaned off, apply at least one more coat of impregnator. When washing your grout off use a sponge & small stiff brush to get all the grout of the crevices.

4 Use a thick bed solid bed trowel to apply adhesive. May need to apply adhesive to back of tile as well dependent on thickness variations.

5 A plasplugs wet cutter should do the job if you keep plenty of water in it and take it slowly. Otherwise check on price to hire one.

 

[gcol]

Hi b1rdman,
welcome to the forum and can I say what an excellent post.

Ok down to the questions:
1. Check with the adhesive manufacturer, but generally not.

2. BAL stuff is top notch but expensive. For what you want, you don't need anything fancy. I'd use Feb fastset floor and wall tiling adhesive - costs about £10 for a 20kg bag and is excellent (You might just get away with 2 bags for your floor). If you decide to use Feb, don't bother with a primer.

3. NOOOOOOOOOOO! Epoxy is a nightmare and unneccesary for a kitchen floor. Just get a decent grey powdered grout. I use PCI fast track grout ( http://www.pci.uk.com/product_fasttrack_grey.asp ) but it's quite hard to find. Seal the slate before you grout and then also after you've grouted.

4. A 10mm radius U notched trowel for your floor tiling. A Marshalltown grout float and a couple of sponges.

5. Personally, I don't use a wet diamond table saw. I just use a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a Marcrist diamond blade - makes light work of any tile.
Unless you're going to be doing a lot of tiling regularly, I'd advise you hire a decent cutter for your wall tiles. Get a Rubi.

Good luck

 

[b1rdman]

Thanks for the reply guys. Looks like I'll be shopping at Trade Tiler for a few things tonight. What do you think about a grout gun...quite pricey but worth it? There is a cheaper icing bag I see...

The Lithofin StainStop is being shipped with the tiles so that is one thing already sorted.

Regarding the grouting float, surely you dont slap the grout all over the tiles until the gaps are filled? Are you supposed to just use the corners to create a neat joint? Read horror stories about not being able to get the stuff off the tiles! Had a thought actually, is it worth masking edges of tiles with tape to prevent excess grout on them....or is that a really dumb newbie idea that doesnt work in practise?

The idea of sorting tiles by thickness is a good one. I've noticed the lip from the wood laminate floor in the hall to the kitchen floor isn't that thick so could start with the thinner tiles there.

I wouldn't mind getting my hands on more powerful tile cutter such as a Rubi but will have a wall tiling job after this one so tempted to buy the Plasplugs machine. Would probably cost about the same as hiring a better one I guess.

Quite looking forward to this job. Tiles arrive tomorrow (Thursday) so will be able to lay them out loose when I get back from work. I'll try and post some photos as I go...hopefully not as an example of how not to lay floor tiles! lol

 

[nellyb]

A grout gun is probably a good idea if you;re concerned about staining although if the slate os sealed correctly prior to grouting and washed off properly you won;t have a problem. This potentially could save you a lot of cleaning time.

On the subject of sorting/grading, usually this type of better quality slate is fairly well calibrated. That said, you are getting several different size formats and may find that the 30x30's are generally quite a bit thinner than the 60x40's and therefore will need bedding out.

 

[b1rdman]

Tiles were delivered this morning! Courier was supposed to call my mobile and give me an hours notice so I could get back home but that was far too organised wasn’t it. Got the call when he was on my doorstep so he had to leave them on the driveway! What’s more he plonked them right in front of the garage door so had to shift half the slates so I could move the pallet back and get the door open…back breaking stuff! Must say the slate is stunning though and even better than I remembered in the showroom.

Yes you are spot on in what you say nellyb. Each individual size of tile is well calibrated but the thickness is relative to the size. I would say the 30 x 30’s are 8-10mm, 40 x 40’s are 10-12mm and the 60 x 40’s are about 20mm.

You mention bedding out, what is the best technique for this? Does it mean applying more adhesive to the floor and to the back of the tile where necessary? The 30 x 30’s are about half the thickness of the large tiles.

The other thing that concerns me is the ‘step’ from the hall’s wood laminate floor to the kitchen….I can see the slate tiles rising above this by a few mm’s. I’ve already removed the door and will be getting a new one so hopefully not too much of a problem.

First photo of new kitchen with bare floor and another of the African Silver Blue Slate.