Slow filling toilet cistern and mains pressure not brilliant

[AjayK44]

My toilet cistern is getting slower and slower to refill. It's never been extremely fast and I know my mains pressure is not brilliant but this is now a problem.

I am thinking of replacing the inlet valve completely with something better but how do I go about it and what would a better type be?

It is a bottom inlet and rather inaccessible. Having turned the supply off what tool would I use to undo the nut on the end of the flexible connector as it won't be accessible with a normal spanner?

The next issue is that the plastic nut that holds the bottom of the inlet valve sealed against the bottom of the tank is slightly offset against the access hole in the bowl so again how do I undo that?

I attach some photos of what is installed to hopefully clarify what I am trying to explain.

Help much appreciated.

 

[terryplumb]

You would, almost certainly, have to remove the cistern from the WC pan to remove the float valve. Replace it with a fluid master, brass shanked , bottom entry float valve. Once the cistern is removed and new valve fitted ,fit the flexi hose as well ,before re fitting. You will also need a new donut washer ,which is the seal between the cistern and the pan.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

You may get away with using a crows foot or tap spanner to remove the compression nut, as for the inlet plastic backnut, you may be able to use a tap spanner. It would be easier the way terry has suggested, just offering a different approach.

 

[Londoner2]

Buy this and get a plumber to fit after main stop cock:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/salamand...ooster-mains-water-boosting-pump-1-6bar/75286

 

[Madrab]

You would also need to understand what your mains dynamic pressure and flow are at the moment before considering what, if anything, you can do about your mains supply, if you are even looking at doing anything.

 

[AjayK44]

Much appreciate all your help. I assume there is no way of repairing the existing inlet float valve in situ. I'm guessing there must be some debris blocking it somewhere but can't see any obvious way of taking it apart within the tank to clean.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Could just be a compressed washer, looks like an ideal standard/armitage shanks

 

[Madrab]

You could shut the water off and dis-assemble the top of the fill valve and have a look in at the washer etc but it may be restricted at the filter found at the bottom of the tube.

 

[AjayK44]

You could shut the water off and dis-assemble the top of the fill valve and have a look in at the washer etc but it may be restricted at the filter found at the bottom of the tube.

Thank you. I can't find any instructions to disassemble the relevant parts to check this. Can anyone point me to a download. My other thought is that as this is off the mains, has a flow restrictor been fitted somewhere. As my mains pressure is very low where would this be fitted and how could I remove it?

 

[polesapart]

Turn off water. Twist cap 1/8th or 1/4 turn whilst holding stem from turning. Use grips.

May be easier if you take the flush valve out first- again a quarter turn does it, easier than it looks.

IIRC the filter hooks out. You can test the water flow by holding a mug upside down over the open fill valve stem and briefly turning the water back on.

The turbolator/flow reducer, if fitted, is not accessible from above.

Ideal Standard diaphragm washers are available. they also do a service kit (sv90167) which includes a new filter, washer and billet, plus instructions.

Still better off with a Fluidmaster IMO, as in the first answer posted above.

 

[AjayK44]

Turn off water. Twist cap 1/8th or 1/4 turn whilst holding stem from turning. Use grips.

May be easier if you take the flush valve out first- again a quarter turn does it, easier than it looks.

IIRC the filter hooks out. You can test the water flow by holding a mug upside down over the open fill valve stem and briefly turning the water back on.

The turbolator/flow reducer, if fitted, is not accessible from above.

Ideal Standard diaphragm washers are available. they also do a service kit (sv90167) which includes a new filter, washer and billet, plus instructions.

Still better off with a Fluidmaster IMO, as in the first answer posted above.

Thank you. I took the cap off as you suggest and tested the pressure using a mug. It is clearly low but the pressure on kitchen tap is still a bit better. I have put back together without making any other changes and things are a bit better than they were before. I think I will go with changing it to the Fluidmaster as suggested but not sure I'm confident enough to remove the whole tank from the pan so may need a plumber.

Much appreciate all the help.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

If pressure is that poor, then you may need a low pressure valve. Are you sure it’s pressure and not flow?

 

[AjayK44]

If pressure is that poor, then you may need a low pressure valve. Are you sure it’s pressure and not flow?

I'm not sure how you tell the difference. With the kitchen tap I can stop the water with my hand which I gather you shouldn't be able to do with mains. The water board did come out about a year ago and said it satisfied minimum requirements.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

An easy check to do for flow and sometimes pressure is making sure your stopcock is fully open, both inside and out.

 

[Madrab]

If you can stop the cold mains pressure with your thumb then it's pretty low, certainly below 1 bar.

I'd be tempted to look at a mains booster as per the post from Londoner. I'd still want to do a pressure and flow test first, at a point closest to the mains so you know exactly where you are.