slow toilet cistern fillup

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Hi folks.

Moved into a new house and the toilet takes ages to fill back up again after it has been flushed. Taking the lid of shows a steady trickle of water, but not at a great rate. I've tried adjusting the flow valve under the cistern, which is a screw that turns the flow on or off, but to no avail. The cold water taps have excellent flow and even opening up the stop cock more does not help the flow rate to the toilet, but the taps get a noticeable change.

Any thoughts? Blockage in the cistern workings?

Cheers

Sean.
 
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Shutdown cold water supply and take apart the toilet ballcock valve and clean or renew seat etc or replace the whole thing which are quite cheap
 
Is the filler of the vertical kind or not?

Most likely, the filler valve is blocked with crud and needs cleaning.
 
If you've noticed a reduced flushing power of your toilet over time, I have a simple recommendation for you, something for you to check. The holes on the underside of the toilet bowl often become clogged with deposits. So what you want to use is a little handheld mirror, even a little dental mirror- although I would suggest that after you use it for this, that becomes its permanent use.

Once you detect a hole that has maybe some buildup that's preventing it from flowing properly, just cut a piece of wire coat hanger and run it up in there and clear out and obstructions that you might find. And do this all around the edge, and I think you'll see an improvement.

It may help to watch this free online video on fixing slow toilets at http://homegarden.expertvillage.com...slow-toilet.htm

I like the website http://www.expertvillage.com for free videos and tips on all sorts of DIY stuff.
____________________________

erockybalboa please see forum rule 17.

every post you have replied to so far is over 2 years old!
 
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Regardless of your needs, installing a new toilet or replacing one that has seen better days is relatively easy. There are just a few steps and it can all be completed in one day.


Selecting a new toilet



In most states across the Untied States, new toilets must allow for only one and a half gallons of water to flush at one time. This not only saves the environment with every flush, it also saves you each month with your water bill. You will find that most community building codes also require these new toilets. It is always best to check with your local community before installing the new toilet. The only thing left is to choose a style or color that best suits your family, needs and interior design scheme of your bathroom.


Getting started


If you are installing a new toilet in a new location where one did not exist before you can skip this part. Replacing an old toilet has only a couple of extra steps from installing a toilet in a new location.


Before you try to remove the old toilet, you need to be sure the water has been shut off. Behind the toilet (and sometimes hidden in the base cabinet adjacent to the toilet) is the water shut off valve. If you remember the old phrase, “Lefty Lucy – Righty Tighty”, you will be able to know which way to turn the valve to cut off the water supply. Turn to the right to close the valve. You will need to be sure the water is turned off and you will need to empty the tank, so flush the toilet twice. This helps to ensure you got most of the water out. There will be a bit of remaining water in the tank so have towels or news paper on the floor to help mop up the water when the tank is removed.


Removing the old tank


Follow the water supply cut off valve to the tank of the toilet. Take an adjustable wrench and clamp it onto the outside supply tubing on the coupling nut. With a pair of rib joint pliers, inside the tank, grab the other nut and turn left to loosen. You may need to hold the outside nut and adjustable wrench with your other hand to stabilize.


Once you have the water supply disconnected, it is time to remove the tank. With the same technique you just used to remove the supply line, you need to hold the mounting bolt nut under the tank, while inside the tank you unscrew the mounting bolt from the main body of the toilet. This will release the tank. Simply set the tank on the floor with some form of cushion to protect your flooring. Newspaper or old towels will do just fine.


Next you will need to remove the floor bolts that hold the main toilet body to the floor. Once you have these off, it is time to pull the toilet off the floor. The toilet is attached not only by the floor bolts, but also by adhesive. You will need to rock the toilet back and forth while leaning it forward to pry it loose.


Once the old toilet has been removed stuff a rag into the exposed pipe. This helps keep the sewer gasses from entering the room and keeps objects from falling into it. You can use a paint scraper or any flat tool to scrape the old adhesive remains from the floor and pipe gasket. Try to clean as well as possible as this will help with better adhesion for the new toilet.


Installing a new toilet


If you are installing a new fixture where there was no fixture before, supply line pipes will need to be installed. You will need to call a professional plumber to do this for you as it is very involved and dangerous. Once you have the pipes installed, installing the new fixture is a snap!


Lay some newspaper or old towels on the floor. Flip the new fixture over and lay down on the paper or towel to protect your flooring and to expose the underside. The underside of the toilet will have a hole, called a horn. This is where the water leaves the toilet to the sewer. You need to place a new wax gasket on this horn. Most new toilets come with this wax gasket.


Flip the bowl back over and place the horn of the toilet into the floor pipe. Rocking it back and forth will help insure of a good fit. Once you have the toilet bowl in place, you will need to level it while attaching the floor bolts at the same time. To do this, place the bolts through the holes into the floor loosely. With a level on top of the bowl, slowly tighten the floor bolts. You want the bowl to be tight to the floor, but not too tight as to crack the porcelain of the bowl. If you are unable to level the bowl and have the floor bolts tight at the same time, you may need small plastic shims to level the bow.


Attaching the tank



Some new toilets are one piece, meaning the tank and the bowl are not separated into two parts. However traditionally toilets do have a separate tank. Attaching the tank is even easier than the bowl.


Your new toilet will come with a flush valve, this is the mechanical contraption that fits inside your tank that attaches to the handle outside of the tank, and flushes the water. Assemble this according to the manufacturer instructions and attach inside your tank before installing the tank.


Your tank should come with a mounting cushion. This is a rubber piece that is laid under the tank to protect the tank from rubbing against the bowl, subsequently cracking either one. Lay the tank onto the bowl, being careful to position the two bolt holes over the matching holes underneath. Insert the mounting bolts and tighten. There may be gaps where your mounting bolts are, so you will need to fill any gaps with plumber’s putty, available at any hardware store.


The only thing left is to hook up the water supply. Take the water supply line and screw to the bottom of the tank. Turn the water supply valve back on and flush! Congratulations! You have just installed your first toilet!
 
A useful reply, but aimed at American users. UK practice is not identical, although the languages are similar.

I think that the user's profile may be inaccurate, as Cardiganshire is in Wales:

luvr29

uk.gif


Joined: 28 Nov 2006
Posts: 2
Location: Cardiganshire,
United Kingdom
 
First thing to establish! Is it being filled from the mains supply or from a water cistern in the loft. The pressure from loft will be a lot less and if you look at new ball valves there are two valve seats provided. One for high pressure and one for low pressure. If you use the high pressure one from loft cistern you will get reduced flow.
Other than that follow the advice of mansona
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 12:34 pm
Post Subject: slow toilet cistern fillup


tee hee!
 
JohnD said:
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 12:34 pm
Post Subject: slow toilet cistern fillup


tee hee!

To save any further embarrassment please note JohnD is right.
 
Sean,
My toilet has just developed the same problem. in my case it's a little washer thats sits inside the float valve. Not sure how a float valve works, but the washer has got a small split and now the water flow is down to a trickle.
I'm now after either a replacement washer or a new float valve. The problem is I can't find a washer or float valve that fits!
The washer looks like this:
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The float valve looks like this:
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The toilet is about 3 years old and bought from mfi. They've given me a telephone number for Mark II who supply their bathroom suites, but I won't be able to get in touch with them till after the weekend now.
Ideally I'd like an alternate supplier and to get hold of a replacement washer/float valve sooner.
Unfortunately there is no manufacturers name on the float valve, all it says is 'Trop-Plein' which I've found is the french word for 'overflow'. So I'll struggle to get a replacement washer.
I also don't know what this sort of float valve is called.

Can anyone help?[/img]
 
Cheers TicklyT,
They've got both the float valve and washer. I'll just get the washer to begin with to see if that solves the problem.
Thanks!
 

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