SLX Link (Magic Eye) - no response from remote.

[Ian310]

First of all, apologies if I'm duplicating threads here.

I have SLX Link attached to a wall plate in my bedroom which feeds my bedroom TV with the picture in the living room where Sky box is. The remote doesn't work/light isn't on.

- I have no amplifiers in place - picture is fine
- RF2 supply output in on
- I have no splitters in place - Main tv and bedroom tv only.

Any advice on getting the remote responsive?

 

[ChrisFrost]

Try the SLX plugged directly in to the RF2 output on the Sky box. That will prove if the SLX itself is working (or if there is power from the RF2 socket).

Then connect up as before and try the SLX in the bedroom. If it doesn't work there then it's a cable problem. The most likely cause is a stray wire from the shielding shorting out on the centre conductor.

 

[ericmark]

I had a problem with mine in that there was a de-coupling capacitor in the wall plate. I had to solder a link across it. Also in the bedroom I had this arrangement.

Braid breaker and high pass filter following the instructions from DTi in their booklet which also had to be all ripped out.

I was really lead up garden path as unlike yours once the high pass filter was ripped out LED on digi eye worked. It was being powered from booster splitter in loft even though no connection to Sky box.

 

[Mickymoody]

The feed length is too long, I have the same problem. Use a signal booster, (that others on here might cause a problem?), or use better quality cable?

Mine is unresolved.

 

[tockworth]

If your wall socket is the same as the diagram in eric mark post which is a common aerial socket then c1 and c2 are not decoupling caps they are signal connecting capacitors which of course will block your dc feed from rf2 of the sky box.Put a link across c1 and c2 which carries the dc feed and open circuit the two coils L1 and L2 it will then not be a high pass filter but should not effect signal quality in a noticable way.

 

[Mickymoody]

If your wall socket is the same as the diagram in eric mark post which is a common aerial socket then c1 and c2 are not decoupling caps they are signal connecting capacitors which of course will block your dc feed from rf2 of the sky box.Put a link across c1 and c2 which carries the dc feed and open circuit the two coils L1 and L2 it will then not be a high pass filter but should not effect signal quality in a noticable way.

Then how does a direct feed not work? ie mine? It's not a long cable reach, and all settings are correct, but the system doesn't work?

 

[tockworth]

well mickymoody if yours is a direct feed as differs from ericmark and Ian310 and you have powered up rf2 of your skybox via the installers menu on the remote control the next step is to measure the output on rf2 on the skybox you should read on a low dc scale of a test meter 6-8volts.If that is not there suspect the box. If it is there measure the other end of the cable it should read the same . If it is not there suspect the cable being open circuit. If it is there but still does not light the magic eye suspect the magic eye.You can do a continuity check on your run of cable by temporarily shorting the inner and outer strands of the cable at one end by twisting together then on a test meter at the other end on continuity ohms range read across the outer and inner of the cable and you should have a low ohmic reading. It will either be very low or open circuit.

 

[Mickymoody]

well mickymoody if yours is a direct feed as differs from ericmark and Ian310 and you have powered up rf2 of your skybox via the installers menu on the remote control the next step is to measure the output on rf2 on the skybox you should read on a low dc scale of a test meter 6-8volts.If that is not there suspect the box. If it is there measure the other end of the cable it should read the same . If it is not there suspect the cable being open circuit. If it is there but still does not light the magic eye suspect the magic eye.You can do a continuity check on your run of cable by temporarily shorting the inner and outer strands of the cable at one end by twisting together then on a test meter at the other end on continuity ohms range read across the outer and inner of the cable and you should have a low ohmic reading. It will either be very low or open circuit.

Sucking eggs isn't my preferred option, but yes I did try all that, thankyou very much. The cable has supplied a good picture for many years. I used to install networks, I know about twisted pairs, or cable length.

 

[tockworth]

So sorry for not knowing that mr. angry my phsychic powers had taken a day off the day I posted that and did not realise my only motive was to try and help what I unforgivenly thought was a layman and not an expert like you

 

[daveg360]

I'm also quite happy with cabling and networking but it didn't stop me getting a couble of strands of the outer shorting to the inner in one of the plugs. Think the sky box shuts down the DC if this happens.

 

[tockworth]

absolutely correct daveg360 another fault that would lose the 9v magic eye feed from the skybox If there was a short on the cable the 9v rail on the sky box would close down to protect the power supply from frying until the short was removed. A cold continuity check with both ends of the cable disconnected ie from the box end and the tv end with test meter leads across the outer and inner of either plug end should read infinity ohms. If there is a low ohmic reading then there is a short somewere on the cable run.