Soaker between western red cedar shingles and polycarbonate

[Likaleica]

In need of urgent advice please: I need to renew the 90 degree soaker/s between a vertical gable end hung with western red cedar shingles and a lower adjoining conservatory roof made of polycarbonate. The run is about 5/6m in length. Originally code 3 lead was used, but I'd like to replace it with lead alternative Lead R flashing (aluminium sandwich construction with self adhesive.) Would be grateful to know if this will be suitable and if so, should I fit it in one continuous run or cut it into sections. If sections, how long and how much should I overlap between them. Can I nail or screw the upstand of the flashing to the timber batten on the vertical gable wall prior to renewing the bottom course of shingles ? Thank you

 

[datarebal]

Lead and cedar do not really mix ..unless painted with, say bitumen paint , Grp can be used without issues in valleys or flashings

Nails should be silicon bronze or stainless Steel

 

[Likaleica]

Thank you for the advice. I am using SS nails for the shingles anyway. Any further advice on whether I should cut the Lead R flashing into sections and how much to overlap them would be very useful

 

[Nige F]

You only need to cut the R flashing if it's too long to work with. Overlap say 150mm. One single length will be fine.

 

[Likaleica]

You only need to cut the R flashing if it's too long to work with. Overlap say 150mm. One single length will be fine.

Many thanks for your help Nige !

 

[^woody^]

The flashing manufacturer does not mention any expansion or need to use maximum lengths.

The flashing should be flat and stuck against the wall, and any membrane over lapping it. Presumably the first batten is higher than the flashing needs to be so you wont need to flash over the batten.

 

[Likaleica]

Than

The flashing manufacturer does not mention any expansion or need to use maximum lengths.

The flashing should be flat and stuck against the wall, and any membrane over lapping it. Presumably the first batten is higher than the flashing needs to be so you wont need to flash over the batten.

Thanks Woody - yes the batten is higher than the flashing. The situation changed somewhat yesterday when I removed the mixture of lead and zinc flashing. This revealed a sizeable gap of roughly 60mm between the edge of the polycarbonate panel and the batten on the wall. Also, someone bodged the job previously, flattening a long run of usable lead into this gap and covering over with zinc flashing ! All I need to do is re-form the old lead and patch in a section about 1.5m long. And I fear if I used the Lead R alternative its lack of inherent strength might result in it "diving" into the gap at some point in the future, if you see what I mean. I know the best policy would really be to replace the polycarb panel with a wider one but it's no way a new roof and I worry about opening a whole can of worms if I start dismantling it - especially as I'm working solo.
Question: How long an overlap should I use on the lead flashing and should I seal the join/s by gunning in some roof and gutter sealant ?
Thanks again for all the help guys