I have a two storey house; at the back of the house at first storey level I have a small slated roof which is only 3 slates wide. The soil pipe vent comes through this roof and goes up the side of the house, round the guttering and terminates adjacent the main house roof. This makes the soil vent pipe about 10-12 feet in height and it looks as ugly as sin. Is there anyway I can shorten / modify this pipe, at the same time ensuring sewer pipe gasses dont then come into the house. I've read about air admittance valves...can they be relied upon?
Soil stack vent terminal
- Thread starter SteveSPS
- Start date
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wheres the highest toilet and waste entering the soil pipe ?
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S
Sylvan Tieger
My, My and here I thought there was much better craftmenship in England then I see AAVs menthioned.
N
Newboy
Soil VENT pipe - allows foul gases to vent from the system
AAV - lets air into the system
Spot the difference
AAV - lets air into the system
Spot the difference
S
Sylvan Tieger
Depending on a cheap piece of rubber attached to a plastic body to insure carcinogenic and flammable fumes do not enter the structure is not really what I would call integrity in plumbing.
also this AAV will not prevent HOARFROST in some locations.
I like things simple and non mechanical devices for venting when possible.
Rubber dries out, cracks prone to failures.. time will tell
An air admittance valve does not fulfil the same role as an open vent.
Each property should have an open vent to their soil system. You may be able to use an AAV if your property has other vent stack(s) elsewhere.
AAVs should only be fitted internally to prevent freezing.
There are minimum distances laid out for the position of open vent terminals relative to windows and other ventilation.
If the vent stack is such an eyesore, you may be able to consider re-running it internally, emerging straight through the roof.
But remember that changes to the soil and vent system should be notified to the local Building Control Officer.
Each property should have an open vent to their soil system. You may be able to use an AAV if your property has other vent stack(s) elsewhere.
AAVs should only be fitted internally to prevent freezing.
There are minimum distances laid out for the position of open vent terminals relative to windows and other ventilation.
If the vent stack is such an eyesore, you may be able to consider re-running it internally, emerging straight through the roof.
But remember that changes to the soil and vent system should be notified to the local Building Control Officer.
Thanks for all the inputs, looks like I'm stuck with the vent pipe...however as the pipe is 100mm diameter (4 inch for you colonials), I'm guessing I would be OK replacing the visible portion of the pipe with a smaller diameter pipe, maybe 40-50mm so it still vents but is less of an eyesore.
S
Sylvan Tieger
Thank you for converting the size to us colonials now let me give you some insight.
The reason for the vent terminal to be 4" (100 MM) is to prevent hoarfrost.
In another words as the vapor escapes from the building sewer /waste line as hot air rises it also has high humidity. durning the warmer months this is not a problem.
Durning the colder weather this vapor adheres to the sides of the vent terminal and if the vent piping is less then 100MM (4") it can block the opening and cause all kinds of nasty problems in the drainage system.
On a 4" pipe this ice formation cannot biidge the gap thus no hoarfrost is possible.
An AAV defeats this besides being highly unprofessional devices imho
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