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hi.
ive searched around and id like to just confirm ive got the correct methods
im going to be installing B&Q solid oak flooring in an entrance hall for a customer. They picked the product themselves. Ill update here with the length of the hall and size of boards when i have it.
They have been told from various suppliers and B&Q to secret screw it with tongue-tite screws. ive used these before on another similar job.
the method of installation i was thinking of is as follows. please comment if something would be better
1. overboard the existing floor boards with 9mm wbp ply and screw down every 25mm. leave a few mm gap between boards.
2. fit the solid oak flooring with tongue-tite screws - what length?
3. there is existing skirting boards in place and the customer is happy to keep them and suggested installing the beading. ive actually only ever done it before and either removed the skirting or installed it with no skirting in place. Is this a standard acceptible method to use beading, or do you usually undercut the existing skirting (big job)?
4. There is a curved step at the bottom of the stairs, whats the best way of tackling this? there will be an expansion gap where the timber is cut around the step. the beading wont bend around the step and so that leave a visible gap. does it have to be filled with matching caulk or is there a better method?
5. door casings to be undercut and allow the correct gap.
6. Leave expansion gaps all around the perimeter (minimum of 10mm, and add 3mm per meter width if room is wider than 3 meters). is this the same for both directions for length and width of the planks?
7. underlay - not needed.
8. door bars - whats the best ones to use? one door way is going to laminate, one to carpet, and im not sure what the others are.
anything else to add or advise?
ive searched around and id like to just confirm ive got the correct methods
im going to be installing B&Q solid oak flooring in an entrance hall for a customer. They picked the product themselves. Ill update here with the length of the hall and size of boards when i have it.
They have been told from various suppliers and B&Q to secret screw it with tongue-tite screws. ive used these before on another similar job.
the method of installation i was thinking of is as follows. please comment if something would be better
1. overboard the existing floor boards with 9mm wbp ply and screw down every 25mm. leave a few mm gap between boards.
2. fit the solid oak flooring with tongue-tite screws - what length?
3. there is existing skirting boards in place and the customer is happy to keep them and suggested installing the beading. ive actually only ever done it before and either removed the skirting or installed it with no skirting in place. Is this a standard acceptible method to use beading, or do you usually undercut the existing skirting (big job)?
4. There is a curved step at the bottom of the stairs, whats the best way of tackling this? there will be an expansion gap where the timber is cut around the step. the beading wont bend around the step and so that leave a visible gap. does it have to be filled with matching caulk or is there a better method?
5. door casings to be undercut and allow the correct gap.
6. Leave expansion gaps all around the perimeter (minimum of 10mm, and add 3mm per meter width if room is wider than 3 meters). is this the same for both directions for length and width of the planks?
7. underlay - not needed.
8. door bars - whats the best ones to use? one door way is going to laminate, one to carpet, and im not sure what the others are.
anything else to add or advise?
