Solving digital thermostat problem

[Vincenze]

Equipment:
Potterton Suprima 80e (works/fires) [has had PCB upgrade]
British Gas CH/HW timer (works)
2 x CH actuator ports for main house and granny annexe (work) [BGMVSP-2]
1 x Honeywell actuator port to HW cylinder (works)
2 x Chinese (PICTURE) 4 wire 16 amp thermostats that replaced......
2 x T6360 (PICTURE) mechanical Honeywells (1 main house and 1 granny annexe)

Problem 1 (I can solve):
Have identified that the 2 x CH valves are stuck open. Won't budge. Will need replacing. The actuators cannot turn the stuck stems.
Took actuators off. Manually moving the gears switches on boiler.

Problem 2 (I cannot solve)
Chinese 4 wire 16 amp mains supplied thermostats do not trigger boiler/actuators.
Wiring from Honeywell T6360s: earth, 2 neutral, 3 switch live, 1live (PICTURE)
Wiring Chinese: L live, N neutral, L1 live loop, N1 switch live. Thermostat displays correctly. However manual temp does not trigger boiler/actuators.

I wonder if anyone can help? Thank you.

Honeywell T6360

Chinese thermostat

 

[denso13]

2 x Chinese (PICTURE) 4 wire 16 amp thermostats that replaced......

How did you wire these up? Any photos?

 

[Vincenze]

From old Honeywell T6360 to Chinese thermostat

"2" Neutral (blue) to "N"
"1" Live (red) to "L"
"3" Switch live to "N1"
I put a loop wire from "L" to "L1" to power switch

 

[ianmcd]

you are a wire short for your cheap chinese crap, it needs a permanent live in to L

 

[Vincenze]

Isn't...
"1" Honeywell Live (red) to Chinese "L"
permanent?

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Isn't...
"1" Honeywell Live (red) to Chinese "L"
permanent?

Test it and find out.

 

[Vincenze]

It's permanent live or the digital display wouldn't remain on. It's the L1/N1 – call for heat that I'm not sure about.

L1 gets a loop of mains power from L. N1 is the switched live. In both the 6360s it worked. Now in the digital thermostat it doesn't call.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

How do you know it was wired correctly in the Honeywell?

 

[Johnmdc]

L1 is the switched live there should be no connection to N1 in your situation.
So
Red to 4
Blue to 3
Yellow to 1
Nothing to 2

 

[Vincenze]

L1 is the switched live there should be no connection to N1 in your situation.
So
Red to 4
Blue to 3
Yellow to 1
Nothing to 2

Cheers, that worked a treat. Decent quality thermostats at a sensible price.

 

[ericmark]

Cheers, that worked a treat. Decent quality thermostats at a sensible price.

Your lucky, the problem is although the old thermostat should have a neutral to ensure the anti-hysteresis heater works, often it is missing, and all but Nest e need a neutral to work.

I do fancy fitting one of those to my granny flat, I know it is designed for under floor electric heating hence 16 amp contacts and the NTC probe which should go into the floor to stop floor over heating, but if it works then is as you say cheap. However I made a mistake with mothers house and fitted a programmable wireless thermostat which worked great for 6 months, then started losing it's wireless link, so would be nice to hear how yours works for you.

 

[Vincenze]

Yes the diagram wasn't clear that the neutral (N and N1) was jumpered. It was and I could go straight from L1 with switch live (tried to loop hot wire). I had assumed the blocks were separated. Luckily I didn't wreck the thermo.

Now it works really well. I did originally want a Heatmiser but they aint cheap. Mine isn't the wireless. It does have the optional sensor jacks not used. But for £15 I'd say very good quality.

I have a 2 x 2-port set up for main house and annexe. We'll see how long the 2 thermostats last.