Some questions regarding my boiler/rad

[SilverB]

Hi everyone. New here, 1st post

After years of saving, I've finally managed to get my first house.. and now have worked out I know nothing. Thankfully I found this forum and it has already answered some questions for me, so thought I'd register as I have tons to ask as I'd love to start doing home improvements myself. Therefore all help is appreciated

Ok, so.. in regards to my boiler/central heating.

1. I have a Worcester Bosch 30CDi. When the central heating is off (I havent moved in quite yet) the pressure reads just above 1bar. When I go to the house to get it ready for moving in.. and switch the heating on, the pressure raises to 1.5 bar. I then turn it off when I leave, and upon returning its at 1bar again. Is this fluctation normal?

2. The rad in my kitchen was not working. I took off the TRV (I assume thats the plastic knob) and wiggled the pin free. Rad started working. Put TRV back on, and it stopped again. New pin needed or is it bec of 2a (below)

2a. I read on here that I should try bleeding a rad, and I found that the water when collected in a bowl, was black and smelled horrible. I assume this means I've got "sludge" in my rads. Think I also read a stuck pin is a sign of sludge build up?

I got some quotes for powerflushing, and it seems to be £320 (cheapest quote) I've also read on here about trying fernox, and just wanted to know if it was worth doing, and more so.. how to put it in a 30cdi. I dont seem to have a normal filling loop. (I say "normal" though Im just going of google images) I just have 5 straight pipes coming off the boiler going straight down... (upstairs, in a cupboard)

Sorry if any of my questions are noobish but where my skills advance in IT, they are severly lacking in anything home related

Silver

 

[Gas2Air]

1. Normal nothing to worry about.

2. TRV head needs replacing.

No flushing required. Now thank meeeeeeeeeee.

 

[SilverB]

1. Normal nothing to worry about.

2. TRV head needs replacing.

No flushing required. Now thank meeeeeeeeeee.

1. Cool

2. TRV head. Is that JUST the plastic knob that controls it. Not the pin yeh? If so, also cool as I can do that easily

Re no flushing? You sure. Seems to contradict what I've read on here about black water. I dont want to find one day that the pipes have corroded from the inside out as one user suggested.. :/

Should it not be clear non smelling etc?

P.S Thanks for the reply

 

[Gas2Air]

You will get some blackish water/smell from bleeding. If rads are hot both top and bottom don't worry. Yes TRV change, no need to worry for pin. What head is it?

 

[SilverB]

You will get some blackish water/smell from bleeding. If rads are hot both top and bottom don't worry. Yes TRV change, no need to worry for pin. What head is it?

They're hot, though I can hold my hand to all but one of them. The one nearest the boiler gets hotter than the rest. I assume thats bec its closest but wasnt sure if all should get really hot? I.e too hot to touch.

Cant remember what head it was. Though will take the head to B&Q and hopefully they will the same one in stock

Out of interest. I saw a video on youtube, where someone bled one of the rads and the water was.. well, like water. Clear.

If blackish / smelly water is normal. What's not? How do you know when/if a powerflush would be beneficial?

 

[Gas2Air]

If you bleed it for long enough water will become clear. Assuming it's not full of ****e of cause. Black water tends to live around the top and near bleed valves. Take a pic of the valve I might be able to help, B&Q what you talking about man?

Have a read about balancing your system too.

 

[JBPHS]

I'm sorry Gas2Air, but if the pin on the valve body (connected to the pipework) does not return to the upper position, a new TRV head will not rectify the problem. The valve body needs changing. I use Yorkshire Mistrals due to their more substantial pin.

James.

 

[SilverB]

If you bleed it for long enough water will become clear. Assuming it's not full of s***te of cause. Black water tends to live around the top and near bleed valves. Take a pic of the valve I might be able to help, B&Q what you talking about man?

Have a read about balancing your system too.

Done so. Will balance tomorrow. That will def do something as it gets much warmer upstairs than down

 

[SilverB]

I'm sorry Gas2Air, but if the pin on the valve body (connected to the pipework) does not return to the upper position, a new TRV head will not rectify the problem. The valve body needs changing. I use Yorkshire Mistrals due to their more substantial pin.

James.

James. The pin returns to the upper position if I take the TRV head off.

 

[JBPHS]

Ok, with the head removed on the kitchen rad, close all other rads (only need to close one valve on each rad) and run heating for a couple of minutes. The rad should be 'bouncing' off the wall of all is clear. Refit head and balance rads. Check operation and let us know.

James.

 

[Gas2Air]

TRV heads can't get stuck then? It's the head Silver.

 

[JBPHS]

Swap TRV heads to see if fault migrates.

James.

 

[SilverB]

My head is a Myson 2 way. B&Q do not sell so will order online.

Balanced system (Had no way of measuring, so..) though couple of raised questions.

1. As I was doing one locknut, I noticed it was turning the bolt underneath. I only had one adjustable spanner, so not sure if I just need 2, or if it means I need a part replacing as it shouldnt turn.

2. The rad nearest the thermostat on the wall downstairs, has 2 nuts to turn.. as there is no TRV. So do I adjust them both?

Getting there slowly..

 

[SilverB]

Bump. Anyone? Sorry to be a pain

 

[planenut]

Is the TRV still set for a low temperature when you refit it? Try to set on highest number. If now works, try on different settings. You will need to turn off the system and drain to put a new valve on. You should replace the whole valve, don't try to just get a "top".