(Something) tripped after replacing socket

[WilsonG]

So, I changed a 1 gang wall socket to a 2 gang using converter socket.

When turning the electric back on 1 fuse has tripped and won’t come back on.

I’ve tried to isolate appliances and there seems to be power to all sockets including the changed one, so I changed the wall socket back to the original anyway, assuming that was wrong and I’m still not able to flip the fuse back.

Wires are in the correct positions and not loose, any ideas how to resolve?

I can’t even find which socket that switch links to, but it was definitely up before I turned everything off!

 

[oldbutnotdead]

First thing is put this in the correct sub-forum- Electrics UK.
Second thing, your paragraph about power to all sockets but you can't flip the fuse back makes no sense.
Third thing - 'fuse'? Nah. Is it an MCB that has failed (small lever with a current rating on it) or an RCD/RCBO ( similar small lever with a test button)?

 

[WilsonG]

Apologies, I haven’t used the forum before and was looking for some support.

I’ve attached a picture to be sure.

I’m terms of the second paragraph - I have tried to determine what isn’t working but haven’t been able to pinpoint anything.

 

[JohnD]

The breaker that is down is a 16A MCB.

It is unlikely for a 16A breaker to be correct for a socket circuit. It was more likely to be intended for an immersion heater. Is your socket near an airing cupboard? Is there an outdoor socket?

There appear to be open gaps in the face of the consumer unit, which indicate an incompetent installation. None of the circuit identification labels look to be filled in which is very poor. There seems to be an incorrect device in the middle that does not fit. The wiring to the old doorbell transformer is very old and may need replacement.

I see no RCD so it is probably fairly old, although it is a steel enclosure.

Is this a rented house?

It looks like there are more CUs on the wall that are out of shot. It might be useful to see them, and the cabling. There may be clues.

 

[WilsonG]

Thanks for your reply. No, it’s a bedroom socket, no airing cupboards upstairs.

Nope, house was recently purchased!

Should I be concerned about the breaker being down?

 

[JohnD]

Yes, you ought to find out what it is supposed to do. You should do all the breakers, and write it on the label with a fine marker.

Turn off the main switch and see if it will then reset.

You should get an electrician to remove the black item, and replace it with a correct part or blank filler, also the empty gap. Live parts are accessible through the gaps. A finger or tool can easily enter.

 

[Adam_151]

1. The black device does appear to be correct for the board, its a qwikline board which would take the QO-E breakers as well as the QO-X which is what the black device appears to be. QO-X were IIRC type 4 devices, so may fail on ZS.

2. The tripped breaker may just need pushing down slightly before it'll reset to the up position.

3. You must keep your fingers away from the hole in the front which does need addressing

4. There are likely more cirucits in the hager board below (could you take a wider along picture, and one of the other board)

5. That board does not provide any additional RCD protection to cirucits, and given the other issues, you are likely best having it replaced, its likely about 30years old

 

[ericmark]

I agree with @JohnD seems likely supply to immersion heater at some time, although may not do that any more.

What you need to do is decide a plan on how to get your home to how you want it. It took me around 4 months to get around to changing the consumer unit, but one has to do it in the right order, and before touching the electrics you need to change consumer unit so safe for you to work on.

 

[WilsonG]

Wider picture -

I have pushed the breaker down before trying the up position and it still doesn’t stay up. Everything I can think of testing has worked in terms of appliances/ lights sockets/boiler so still not sure if it’s still linked to something? unless it’s now redundant due to an old immersion heater which has now been removed - just strange that it was up before now?

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Adam_151]

That installation is definatly in need of some work I'm afraid. The pressing issue is the missing blanks to the sqaure D unit, but you have also got no additional RCD protection, and there seems to be an MICC cable running off somewhere thats joined to 2 core braided flex (where does the cable that goes to the circular metal box in the middle go to?)

You ought to be getting someone in to do a condition report on it, preferably before you start decorating anywhere. I don't think it'll need a complete re-wire (but there may be bits that do) , and it'll definatly need a new board.

I misread the original post, if you do have a supply everywhere with this breaker off, then just leave it off for now untill you do find somehting not working

 

[WilsonG]

That’s great thank you, any estimate of how much we would be looking at for a new board?

 

[flameport]

That’s great thank you, any estimate of how much we would be looking at for a new board?

Allow £1000.
Could well be less, but you won't know until a full inspection and test is done on the whole installation.

If anyone quotes for just slinging a new board in there without testing everything first and fixing all of the defects they find, then get a quote from someone else.