Spanish Plumbing issue

[Aj100]

Hi Resident Gurus
I am in need of a little help in my house in Spain, i am fitting in a new bathroom and need to move and change the radiator and also to fix a leaking valve on another which i think may have dropped my pressure effecting the rad at the top of the house.
I have a Combi boiler and its make is Junkers (part of the bosch group). I have no manual for it and any that i have found are all in German and can not find any diagrams online.
Firstly i cannot find a drain off valve any ware on the radiators and all of the pipes as are like 10ml and buried in the walls.


Secondly even if did manage to drain the system (any suggestions) i cant find the filler loop in the in the boiler. I have read lots of the posts and wondered if this type of boiler had a internal filler loop, or am I just not seeing it.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have tried to attach a pic, but my bloody MAC aint having it.

Thanks very much

Ajay

 

[Aj100]

I have managed to stick the photo in an album the link is below, i hope it helps.

Thanks again.

Ajay

//www.diynot.com/network/Aj100/albums/[/img]

 

[breezer]

The link you have inseted is wrong.
I have corrected it, in my post.

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• Aj100
• 26 Dec 2008
• 1

you should also use your

button to edit a post, instead of making a new post.

double seasons greetings to you

 

[Aj100]

Thanks very much

Merry Christmas.

 

[Goldspoon]

Draining a radiator circuit (combi boiler):

Turn boiler off (ideally at fused spur). Do not use boiler at all if no water in CH circuit.

If you can find a drain point on a radiator: Fix hosepipe to a drain point on one of the downstairs rads (or might be a drain off point near boiler) and drain off an amount of water to outside drain or garden (you'll see combi boiler pressure drop from whatever it is, likely between 1 bar and 2 bar... eventually to zero). Keep draining until you have emptied the rads (you will need to open the rad air bleed screws - starting at the top of the house and gradually working down - to allow air in, which in turn allows water out the hosepipe - essentially you are getting rid of a vaccum that would otherwise prevent draining). Take care that you are not just draining a "drop down leg of pipework" - this is okay but don't then go and work somewhere elsewhere on the circuit thinking everywhere is empty. Note that draining down can take quite a while.

If no visible drain point: Then you'll just have to choose a low radiator and close the valves at each end of the rad (if one is a TRV then switch it to off or lowest setting). Then carefully drain the ONE rad only - by loosening the connection between the rad and the lockshield valve and letting the water flow into a paint tray or something suitable (open bleed valve at top of rad to allow air in). Be ready to tighten connection as water fills paint tray - rads hold a lot. When rad is empty you can then think about the rest of the water in the circuit (under pressure still!). You could dribble it all into a paint tray from the valve at each end of the empty rad but that will take forever. If you open either valve then water will spurt out the circuit... what can you insert or attach to these valves (you will have to drain water from both pipes and not just one)? To attach anything you might have to remove the rad or bend the pipework a little (otherwise rad is just in the way). For example on the TRV next to my desk now I could insert 15mm pipe (inc. olive and nut from a 15mm iso valve or compression fitting) into the TRV, tighten it up and then attach garden hose to that with a jubilee clip... then switch on TRV and water will be off and away. If it’s a big thread then a wash machine hose will likely fit (tucked into some waste pipe and fed outside or connected to a hosepipe using a small length of 15mm copper). It’s just about getting the water out and diverting to a drain or garden.

TOP TIP: If a rad is taken out but the flow and return pipes are left still pressurised then be aware a TRV can open if the temperature in the room drops enough due to frost setting sort of thing..

When re-filling you do this using the combi boiler filling loop (boiler still off) or a combi boiler filling key (as on my Worcester Bosch). Google some pics to see what these two methods look like. Stop at 1 bar pressure and then bleed downstairs rads (so water filling from bottom of house upwards)... pressure will drop so top up to 1 bar and bleed again and continue this bleeding all rads inc. upstairs. When no air in all rads pressure up the system to what it should be (likely 1 bar to 2 bar - check your boiler manual). You should add some inhibitor (early in this process - add inhibitor whilst drained down, either via pipework at TRV or by taking bleed valve out and putting in top of rad)..

I add inhibitor via a rad: take out the top bung (like the air bleed screw but just a blank). Insert one end of a 15mm iso valve and gently tighten. On other end of iso valve is small length of copper pipe connected to small length of hose and then funnel. Pour inhibitor into funnel which then flows thru hose and past iso valve into rad (make sure iso valve open lol). You may need to open opposite air bleed valve to allow air to escape as inhibitor enters. One can add inhibitor like this at any time - just drain down some water, add inhibitor to a upstairs rad, then refill.

I am not a CH expert ... I'm sure somebody will chip in if I am wrong or have missed anything.

 

[Aj100]

That's great

Thanks for the advice re draining the Rads i think that's the only way i will be able to do it.

I was unable to locate the filler loop as pictured above, and have no idea what a filler key would look like, any ideas, could it be one of those little red taps.

Thanks for your reply

much appreciated

Aj

 

[Biggles..]

I'd be tempted to say that the red star shaped knob is part of a built in filling loop.

 

[Aj100]

yea that would make sense, i guess it just a case of opening it when refiling and waiting for the pressure to to rise and then turning off and adjusting to the 1.5 pressure.

 

[Agile]

Take care when filling because the Pressure Release Valve has not been connected to safely vent outside!

That does not look like a boiler model that I am familiar with. However, if you can take off the front outer cover and post a picture it may be something which we recognise.

Tony

 

[Aj100]

will do it tomo morning and post it

Thanks very much

 

[WDIK]

spanish plumbing?

surely that is a diffinetive oxymoron.







confusion will reign

 

[Aj100]

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• Aj100
• 27 Dec 2008
• 1

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• Aj100
• 27 Dec 2008
• 1

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• Aj100
• 27 Dec 2008
• 1

A few more pics for the expert eye!!!!

Thanks

Ajay