Spark plug change - what tools do I need

[andyj941]

Hi I'm ready to change the spark plugs on my 2001 1.3 Fiesta Flight. However I'm not sure what tools I need, apart from a feeler gauge to check the plug gap, which I already have.

I don't have any other tools and I'm at a loss as to what tools to buy and what size. If anyone has experience of doing this job and can tell me exactly what tools to buy (1/2", 3/8" etc) I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

 

[75pete]

You need a spark plug socket. Do you know how to read a feeler gauge, i ask as you are unsure as to what is needed to remove a S/plug

 

[andyj941]

Yes I do. What I mean is for example http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss...=search-alias=tools&field-keywords=spark+plug which spark plug here is suitable and what compatible wrench would I require?

 

[andyj941]

OK I've looked at the spark plugs HR 7 DCX and they appear to require an 18mm socket. So I'm going to buy one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-M38004..._1_1?ie=UTF8&s=diytools&qid=1208774258&sr=8-1 then an extension bar http://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-M38002..._1_1?ie=UTF8&s=diytools&qid=1208774337&sr=1-1 and then a 3/8 square drive socket wrench.

 

[^neo^]

If the spark plugs look rusted in, don't try and force them or you'll end up with a huge bill

 

[JohnD]

If you already have a socket set, then the deep socket is handy. If not, just buy a plug spanner (which is a deep socket on a T handle with a pivot).

A socket on a ratchet handle is more likely to break the insulator as you can't apply a direct axial force like you can with a T handle or T bar, when you have a deep socket or an extension bar.

BTW socket sets usually come with a plug socket anyway. If you are working on cars a 1/2" set is more use. 3/8" is more use on bikes.

Use a soft brush to clean away any dirt from round the plug before you take it out, otherwise abrasive dirt will fall down the plug hole into the cylinder.

If you are buying tools like this which are cheap and heavy, post is not the best way. You can get quite fair quality in places like Halfords, and sometimes DIY sheds. If buying anything expensive, go for Chrome Vanadium Alloy steel. Never buy cheap tools from bargain shops or street markets.


have you bought a Haynes manual yet?

 

[andyj941]

Thanks John, you've been a great help. Halfords had everything I needed, but might still get a torque wrench from somewhere to I can make sure they're tightened correctly. I bought a spark plug wrench (like the one in your post), a spark plug brush to clean around it first and some copper grease to lubricate the new ones. Yeh I have thanks, it's been very handy!

 

[andyj941]

I need a torque wrench at 17Nm so I've decided on http://www.amazon.co.uk/SILVERLINE-..._1_2?ie=UTF8&s=diytools&qid=1208863930&sr=8-2 - what else do I need in addition to this to get to be able to tighten the plugs? I know it includes a 150mm extension bar and a 1/2" to 3/8"coverter.

The spark plug size and the size of the fitting spark plug wrench is 10mm. In other words what do I need to put on the end of the extension bar to make sure the tightness is exactly right? Thanks

 

[JohnD]

Silverline is a poor quality brand of cheap tools. I wouldn't have one as a gift. the style you are looking at, with a settable click-stop, is the right kind to get (they are also available with an indicating needle)

If you can't afford a top quality one like Britool or Snap-on, Draper are fairly cheap and reasonable. (you should also get a long guarantee). I have not had Halfords own brand but they might be OK.

you also need a deep-reach plug socket. If your torque wrench is a 1/2" drive, you may as well get a 1/2" socket. The length of extension you need (if any) will depend on how much your plugs are recessed. You want the minimum possible distance between the wrench head and the nut, as it will cause a bending diagonal leverage and you will have to try to hold it upright with your other hand. .

If you are starting to work on your car, can you afford to buy a 1/2" socket set? It works out much cheaper than buying then bit by bit, and you should get a sturdy case to keep them in. You might even get a second-hand set at a good price, but in this case make sure it is from a good brand and is complete. Unless badly abused, they only part that wears or goes wrong is the ratchet handle. there are plenty of youngsters who buy tools to mend their cars, but stop DIYing when they get older.
10mm sounds very small, are you sure this is the size of the hex nut on the plug? Not the size of the hole it screws into?

 

[Stivino]

10mm refers to the thread size not the size of the hex. Don't bother with a torque wrench either, the length of the lever (handle) on your socket will provide the correct torque.

 

[JohnD]

I agree wih you, Stivino, but if he has not got the feel yet, he could still put a mighty heave and strip it. I came across an apprentice-trainer who used to make the lads get a scrap alloy casting and pepper it with holes, tapping them and screwing in different sizes of bolt until they were right, then until they stripped, to get the feel of the right tightness. Good idea, that.

 

[andyj941]

Thanks everyone, I will invest in some decent tools soon but at the moment I'll just use the spark plug wrench and tighten it reasonably but not too tight. I've been told to do it very tight but not excessively. i'll have to get on with it soon as one of them is really loose at the moment.

 

[andyj941]

I successfully changed 3 out of the 4 plugs but the first one appears to be rusted in and won't budge. Should I try WD40 overnight and try again in the morning?

 

[chainsaw_masochist]

I successfully changed 3 out of the 4 plugs but the first one appears to be rusted in and won't budge. Should I try WD40 overnight and try again in the morning?

Yes, it's well worth using some WD40 for this particular plug. As you say, leave it overnight so it can penetrate the rust. When you come to refit the plugs you could dab a smidgin of Copperslip around the thread. This should facilitate subsequent plug removal. Good luck.

 

[JohnD]

you can also try it after a run, when the head is hot, this may help as the aluminium expands more than the steel, and makes it a bit looser. If not, as it cools it will help draw in the WD40.

If you are going to put great force on a steel plug in an aluminium casting, there is a risk it will strip the thread (though this can be repaired fairly easily)

so (1) get the ratchet head very close to the thread, and hold it perfectly upright with your other hand, to prevent diagonal forces which will one day break the insulated part of the plug (everybody does it once)

(2) get a Torque Wrench and set it to the limit mentioned in your handbook so you do not use too much force.

if that fails, see if a garage will do it for you with an air-gun which hammers at the nut and may break it free (you will have seen tire fitters using them)