Squeaky floorboards and Floor tite screws

[Burnsie1983]

I am trying to stop my landing floorboards from squeaking.

When I first moved in I put some screws next to the nails in the floorboard.

It improves the situation that they are still extremely squeaky (much more than anywhere else in the house).

I considered trying to replace a couple of the floorboards themselves in case they have become a little bit misshapen, bit as the floorboards are all tongue and groove, I would potentially have to replace the whole lot.

I tried to loosen and peer under one of the floorboards today to see if I could identify where the pipes are. To do this I removed some of the screws that I put in originally and they came out relatively easy (even a cheap electric screwdriver could undo them). I wondered therefore if these screws went deep enough into the joists.

I have some 45 mm floor tite screws which I thought might do the job.

However, whenever I have used the screws they don't go into the floor flush, always protruding by approximately one centimeter. Even if I drill a pilot hole or try and forcing in with a manual screwdriver they won't budge and go flush. I've also read online that these do not need pilot holes anyway!

Any ideas why these screws are not going in for me? This was the situation in more than one room so it's not just the particular joist that I was trying today.

Also whilst you're here if there's any other hints and tips other than ripping it all up, that would be great

 

[mrrusty]

Putting screws into a floor where they currently don't exist is a huge gamble, and murphy's law says you will find services...

 

[foxhole]

They stick out 10mm? You are hitting metal?

 

[nero44]

45 mm floor tite screws which I thought might do the job.

I have used these (turquoise) screws successfully and 45mm for regular 18m floorboards seems adequate. But like others have said, screwing down w/out knowing exactly where services are running is a very risky (and potentially costly) game. I'd be very cautious. You can also try a bit of talcum powder in between the T&G, that sometimes avails the squeak.

I've also read online that these do not need pilot holes anyway!

Whilst this is true for healthy fresh floorboards, I have found that they still cause cracks on older floorboards. So depending on the condition of your floorboards, using pilot holes is advisable.

Perhaps your joists have been fitted with some of these safe plates and you are hitting these? Else it seems really odd that you are unable to drive them in properly.

Edits: my poor spelling...

 

[Burnsie1983]

Thank you for the reply all

The reason I am going pretty much next to the nails is that I am assuming there is no pipe there..... But of course I have also checked by removing a floorboard and looking under it and identifying and marking where the pipe is

I don't think my joists have the safety board as they look all wood all the way down! It is very odd but I am very odd and rubbish at DIY it seems

 

[opps]

Personally, I would always drill a clearance hole in floorboards. Note: a pilot hole is not the same as a clearance hole. The clearance hole allows the screw to pass through the board. The screwhead is what holds thing together. A pilot hole enables the screw to enter the joist without the risk of splitting it.

Let's say that you are using a 5mm diameter screw, you need a 5.5 or 6mm drill bit for the "clearance" and then 2.5mm or 3mm for the pilot.

Yeah, some screws claim to be self piloting, but they don't self drill the clearance hole. As you tighten the screw, the floorboard porentionally pushes away from the joist. With self drilling screws, you sometimes need to reverse them and screw down again.

 

[mrrusty]

I like/use these https://timco.co.uk/00055COLLF-collated-flooring-screws-sq-countersunk-yellow The top thread is a different pitch to the main thread and draws the board down tight. You can get similar non-collated screws.