Stained glass panel in stud wall

[zimmerman]

I am hoping to insert a reclaimed stain glass panel into a internal dividing wall. I have cut a small hole into the wall and can see it is platerboard fixed to 4" batons (joists?) approx 16" apart (vertically) - I think this is standard construction but I've never looked inside a wall before.....
The stained glass panel is approx 45" across x 35" tall and mounted in an extremely rigid frame made from 4"x2" (With architrave to bring it flush with the depth of the wall).
The wall is not a supporting wall but I am still nervous about cutting through these joists to insert my purpose built frame. Can you give any advice on the best way to do this?
Thanks in advance - looks like this website is going to be invaluable over the next year or so - lots to do...!

 

[TexMex]

If it's stud and plasterboard, it is highly unlikely that it is supporting anything, other than itself. There are rare occaisions where a stud and plasterboard wall continues up to an upper storey. There are also some conversions, to older properties, where a main support is used as part of a new stud and plasterboard wall.

Assuming that you have acertained that it is definately not supporting anything, you shouldn't have any problem. Once you have cut the plasterboard (and any studs that are in the way). You will find that the edges of the plasterboard are a bit floppy. To overcome this fit some noggins all around the raw edges of the board (with their inner edge flush with the opening. You will then have a sound opening to mount your frame in.

Beware, you may find electrical cable or water pipes running in the wall. Don't cut them or they may go BANG. or HISSSSS.

 

[big-all]

couple of other things come to mind

if you panel is 45 across + frame youll need to cut 3 studs
now it would be advisable to fix a continuous noggin across
the top and bottom opening to give full suport for maximum
rigidity if you just infill between the studs it may be unstable
this unfortunatly would require replacing some plasterboard
rather than just edging it

hope this helps

big all

 

[TexMex]

if you panel is 45 across + frame youll need to cut 3 studs
now it would be advisable to fix a continuous noggin across
the top and bottom opening to give full suport for maximum
rigidity

That was my first thought, but zimmerman does mention that the frame he is putting in place is, in fact, fabricated from 4"x2" (That's one hell of a beefy frame). If well secured the frame, itself, could give this extra support.

 

[big-all]

good point t m

i would like to know how the frame is [a] held together
and how the panel is secured

in other words if he packes out with packing and folding wedges ect
would it cause damage when you slightly overtighten the wedges
then pull in line with the screws in the opening

big all

 

[TexMex]

i would like to know how the frame is [a] held together
and how the panel is secured

I see where you're coming from, the ideal would be to remove the panel, fit the frame securely, then replace the panel, (hopefully taking up any slight discrepancy with the moulding that holds the panel in place.

Perhaps zimmerman will furnish us with some more information, or even better some pictures. Please?

 

[big-all]

we shall wait with baited breath for some colourfull pictures

big all

 

[zimmerman]

My God, you've all been so helpful.. The 'noggins' for the floppy plasterboard is an excellent tip - For your info the glass panel is secured by glazing strips (thin bits of quadrant moulding) in this chunky 4"x2" frame. The frame is nice planed pine as you will see a lot of it on the finished project. The frame will hold everything rigid and some decorative architrave will bring it flush with the surrounding wall. What is the best way to fix the frame to the sawed joists - just some long screws? I could hide the heads where the glass and glazing strips will go... (I will be fixing the frame with the glass removed.)
If I can work out how to post photos I will when the projects finished - This is the first forum I've ever been involved in, and the first post I've ever made - I can't get over how helpful you all are...

 

[big-all]

heeelllooo zimmerman

i am assuming 4 by two is wide side to frame 2 inches showing
when veiwed from the front
as the timber is planed its going to be 6mm smaller thus[96 x 45mm]

and may or may not match your present studs
if your studs are rough sawn likley to be bigger

need to know what space you have to span before
suggesting fixings i recomend a inch and a half inch gap with
folding wedges if possible

i also recomend you try the frame for square no good putting in
a perfect square frame if your glass panell isnt square

big all