Can anyone offer any advice on how to clean stains from a Solid Wood worktop? Also, would it be advisable to apply a sealant of some sort to prevent future staining? I appreciate they are supposed to be a natural Wood finish but I am really regretting Buying these. Having them replaced is not an option.
Stains on Solid Wood Worktops
- Thread starter garash
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What timber is it? Any idea what the stains are? (e.g tea, red wine, tomato, etc)
wood is oak, stains are various! Having to cover worktops with several chopping boards/ place mats every time I do something
Are your worktops bare wood?
Do you have any varnish, oils or sealant on there already?
I use Osmo.
The following text is from IKEA website'
Wooden worktops will age gracefully if you treat them reguarly with oil. We pretreat all our wood worktops to give them a good start. Then it’s up to you to maintain the wood by treating it with BEHANDLA wood treatment oil every now and then.
The oil protects the wood from marks, stains and cracks, and prevents water from penetrating the surface and destroying the wood. If the surface looks a little tired and worn after some time, you can give it a real face-lift by sanding and oiling it. It will be like new. Even though the worktops are very durable we still recommend that you use a pot stand when you place hot pots directly on them.
• Available in standard lengths in the LAGAN and NUMERÄR series.
• May be ordered as made-to-measure worktops in the PERSONLIG series.
After mounting use fine sandpaper to sand the worktop and treat it with the wood treatment oil BEHANDLA. Read more in the instruction that is delivered with the worktop.
BEHANDLA wood treatment oil. Protects the wood, both on the surface and in depth; gives the surface a beautiful sheen and prolongs the life of the worktop. The oil is ap-proved for use on surfaces where food is prepared. Treat the worktop 3-5 times /year. A 0.75 litre can contains sufficient oil to treat 10-12 m2
(107.6-129,2 sq.ft.)
Do you have any varnish, oils or sealant on there already?
I use Osmo.
The following text is from IKEA website'
Wooden worktops will age gracefully if you treat them reguarly with oil. We pretreat all our wood worktops to give them a good start. Then it’s up to you to maintain the wood by treating it with BEHANDLA wood treatment oil every now and then.
The oil protects the wood from marks, stains and cracks, and prevents water from penetrating the surface and destroying the wood. If the surface looks a little tired and worn after some time, you can give it a real face-lift by sanding and oiling it. It will be like new. Even though the worktops are very durable we still recommend that you use a pot stand when you place hot pots directly on them.
• Available in standard lengths in the LAGAN and NUMERÄR series.
• May be ordered as made-to-measure worktops in the PERSONLIG series.
After mounting use fine sandpaper to sand the worktop and treat it with the wood treatment oil BEHANDLA. Read more in the instruction that is delivered with the worktop.
BEHANDLA wood treatment oil. Protects the wood, both on the surface and in depth; gives the surface a beautiful sheen and prolongs the life of the worktop. The oil is ap-proved for use on surfaces where food is prepared. Treat the worktop 3-5 times /year. A 0.75 litre can contains sufficient oil to treat 10-12 m2
(107.6-129,2 sq.ft.)
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Wooden worktops are ideal for use in a sales showroom.
Not so suitable for a room that contains water, knives or hot pans.
Such as a....
As john says, oak worktops look great, until you use them (also the same for highly polished granite worktops).
Eitherway, I would sugegst that as per Ikea text above yo ned to re-oil them.
I tend to use "Osmo 3032 - Clear Satin".
I use 400grade "wet and dry" sand paper (with water) to cut the old surface.
Let it dry.
Wipe it down to get rid of any dust.
And then two very thin coats of Osmo (I apply with a lint free cloth, or a paint brush and wipe down with a lint free cloth).
Key thing is always "THIN COATS" with Osmo.
I still get stains, water marks and hard to remove food (kids breakfast area!) - but with oak I (have to) consider it as a 'patina'.
The reason I like osmo (over varnish) is that if you get a skratch in it, simply wipe a new thin layer of osmo over it to hide it (it does not remove the scratch).
If bigger damage, sand the damaged aread and apply a coat of osmo in that area only.
Downside is that it is not varnish, so have to wipe off wet spllages and drips.
Osmo 3032 - Clear Satin
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=3032+-+Clear+Satin
SFK
Eitherway, I would sugegst that as per Ikea text above yo ned to re-oil them.
I tend to use "Osmo 3032 - Clear Satin".
I use 400grade "wet and dry" sand paper (with water) to cut the old surface.
Let it dry.
Wipe it down to get rid of any dust.
And then two very thin coats of Osmo (I apply with a lint free cloth, or a paint brush and wipe down with a lint free cloth).
Key thing is always "THIN COATS" with Osmo.
I still get stains, water marks and hard to remove food (kids breakfast area!) - but with oak I (have to) consider it as a 'patina'.
The reason I like osmo (over varnish) is that if you get a skratch in it, simply wipe a new thin layer of osmo over it to hide it (it does not remove the scratch).
If bigger damage, sand the damaged aread and apply a coat of osmo in that area only.
Downside is that it is not varnish, so have to wipe off wet spllages and drips.
Osmo 3032 - Clear Satin
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=3032+-+Clear+Satin
SFK
I recently had a quote from a builder who has stopped using Osmo products on joinery over concerns about its longevity...dont know if thats WT’s as well but worth a mention .
Interested to know what builder meant by 'longevity' and on what surface (floors, doors, worktops etc).
In part I would agree - owing to the thin layers that I apply I do have to re-apply to my floors and tables more often than I would with say varnish.
And it does scratch (to which I wipe on a bit more).
So perhaps I am missing something because of my 'patina' excuse.
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Thank you all for the info. These worktops were installed April so are quite new and what I have been told by the Company I got them from is that they should only ever be Oiled and not to use any type of varnish. To be honest, given the marks on them already I would of thought using Varnish would be the least of my concerns lol
That is because if you put varnish on now, on top of the oil, the varnish will not adhere to the worktop.
I’ve got oak worktops, and they have had 3 coats of osmo. Only thing I’m vigilant about is not leaving hot pans and mopping up water.
Since January they still look good, no stains. Even Dried coffee stains wipe off with ease.
I will wonder if yours hasn’t had enough coats?
If you’ve heavy staining you could try oxalic acid, This will get black stains out, but may bleach the wood if you leave it on too long.
I used to be a danish oil fan, but it’s osmo every time for me know.
Since January they still look good, no stains. Even Dried coffee stains wipe off with ease.
I will wonder if yours hasn’t had enough coats?
If you’ve heavy staining you could try oxalic acid, This will get black stains out, but may bleach the wood if you leave it on too long.
I used to be a danish oil fan, but it’s osmo every time for me know.
If you are asking me - I use Osmo on everything and find I have few issues with it and many positives.
It is used on floors, worktops, tables and doors (there is a long discussion on here about using Osmo on Oak Laminate doors - which in summary was I have and they have not delamintanted so far).
The patina I suffer from is mainly 'milk soaked kids breakfast' that I forget to wipe up.
Resulting in slight darkending areas, but disapears when in next lightly sanded and apply a few more coats (done every couple of years).
If at Garash, yes I think that he has been supplied with a worktop with only a thin coat of oil on that needs more applying.
SFK
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I used Osmo top oil on oak (5 coats) lasted about 5 years with tenants before needing recoat.
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