Stitch brick repair

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I have removed the wall paper in the entrance hall into an older house converted into 3 flats. It is a victorian build.

As you enter into the hallway, the main spine wall of the house has moved outwards. I think this is related to the front wall dropping due to a broken drain, but this is all historic.

So the house dropped a bit on its left side and it has also pulled the front slightly forwards. So the spine wall has developed this big crack by the entrance door.

I have removed the paper and then i removed all the plaster and it reveals a really big crack stepping downwards. I think it will be 20mm wide in some of the perps.


My question is about stitch repairing the crack. Because it is so big, do i fill up the rear of the cracks with mortar first and then fit the metal bars with resin, or do i just fit in more metal bars and resin and then point up ? Normally the channel is raked out to allow you to fit these bars, but i am sure i can almost get my finger in some of the joints and then push it into the brick..
 

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That is quite some movement you have there....I would get as much resin in if you can as it will be a stronger repair and then point up the face in mortar. Application with a gun will ensure it reaches as much as you can.
 
If there's no more movement what's the point of bars and resin? Just rake it all out, replace the snapped bricks and repoint. If it still wants to move it will just pull apart somewhere else.
 
Ok so what is the point of using these tie bars then? That’s a real question, I’m not being funny.
 
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Is it worth getting in an SE to check it first?
 
There it's always some movement in a wall, cracks or not. And if a crack is not tied, that's where the future cracking will reoccur. Ties also prevent the panel each side of the crack from moving perpendicular to the crack (ie outwards) from floor, roof or wind loads and so helps the structure act as one.
 
Ok so what is the point of using these tie bars then? That’s a real question, I’m not being funny.

I don't know. Maybe it's a cheaper and quicker method than a comprehensive bricks and mortar repair (not just gobbing some muck in those perps). If the front elevation is still moving outwards it's not going to stop because you've glued some bars in a metre back - the wall will just fail at the next weakest point. If it's not moving then what will make it crack once repaired? If you rebuilt the entire wall you wouldn't stick random bits of metal in it.
 
I think woody had given some good reasons about why, so I will go ahead with it soon.

pretty sure it’s not still moving but I have a surveyor mate who will come have a look.
 
Fix some tell tales to the crack if you need to measure any movement.
Is that the party wall, not the spine wall?
 
Get an SE in to check it over. They can offer good advice too.

That way, you know you are going to fix it properly.
 

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