After practising 20 times at soldering joints I got OK at it (20 for 20, no leaks or even a drip of solder). I'm OK at this DIY plumbing, better than the guides said a journeyman would be, clever enough now to ignore the advice I read on this forum not to solder wet pipes.
Wrong.
There wasn't much of a water flow, just a trickle. The flux ran away into the joint as soon as it got hot, like solder does on dry pipes, the solder solidified almost immediately and wouldn't flow into the joints, it took ages and looked a mess. I did manage do bodge almost all of it, except the bottom where the solder would solidify and blob off instantly instead of going into the joint, even with my torch on full burn (it was only a DIY torch, maybe you'd get away with it with a hotter one).
The water is still flowing a little as none of the three taps (property border, internal stop tap and another internal tap as an isolation tap) work fully. They do work well enough to stop water to all the taps except the last isolation tap, which branches off at the lowest level, so I want to try and re-pack the washer on the isolation stop tap so I can de-bodge my wet pipe lesson and re-do it properly. 2 questions for real plumbers/better DIYers:
Can I repack the washer with a very slight trickle going through the stop tap (2 stop taps before it reduce to minor trickle, the last stop tap which I want to repack is almost completely failed)? I could freeze it, but I'm poor. don't mind getting a little damp and would prefer to use a bucket if it won't screw up repacking the washer.
It's hard to get off and I'm not a weakling (the nut is beginning to strip with a correctly sized spanner). Does all the advice on this thread apply to stop taps too and is there any other hints to add? It's on a very short and awkward to access run of pipe that would have to be replaced too so I'd prefer not to take it out unless I must.
Wrong.
There wasn't much of a water flow, just a trickle. The flux ran away into the joint as soon as it got hot, like solder does on dry pipes, the solder solidified almost immediately and wouldn't flow into the joints, it took ages and looked a mess. I did manage do bodge almost all of it, except the bottom where the solder would solidify and blob off instantly instead of going into the joint, even with my torch on full burn (it was only a DIY torch, maybe you'd get away with it with a hotter one).
The water is still flowing a little as none of the three taps (property border, internal stop tap and another internal tap as an isolation tap) work fully. They do work well enough to stop water to all the taps except the last isolation tap, which branches off at the lowest level, so I want to try and re-pack the washer on the isolation stop tap so I can de-bodge my wet pipe lesson and re-do it properly. 2 questions for real plumbers/better DIYers:
Can I repack the washer with a very slight trickle going through the stop tap (2 stop taps before it reduce to minor trickle, the last stop tap which I want to repack is almost completely failed)? I could freeze it, but I'm poor. don't mind getting a little damp and would prefer to use a bucket if it won't screw up repacking the washer.
It's hard to get off and I'm not a weakling (the nut is beginning to strip with a correctly sized spanner). Does all the advice on this thread apply to stop taps too and is there any other hints to add? It's on a very short and awkward to access run of pipe that would have to be replaced too so I'd prefer not to take it out unless I must.