Stove blowing plaster off wall

[geraldthehamster]

Can anyone suggest a suitable board material to fix tiles, to, and attach to a wall behind a wood-burning stove?

We had our stove installed earlier this year. It stands in a corner, on a hearth of 9 inch pammets. The wall behind was re-skimmed not many weeks before the stove was installed. Although the stove is a good 6 inches from the wall, I noticed last night that the plaster is cracking, and about to blow off the wall.

I want to avoid removing the stove, so there isn't access to render the wall. I thought of attaching tiles to a board, sliding the board behind the stove (there is clear access from one side), and sticking to the wall with tile adhesive, to cover the damaged area. I imagine it would be advantageous to fix the tiles to the board with a cementitious adhesive. Can anyone suggest a suitable material for the board, or alternatively something I could use without fixing tiles to it? I don't want it to look too modern, otherwise I'd consider a sheet of zinc or aluminium.

The plaster is only cracking up to the height of the stove itself, and not behind the exposed flue pipe. So the solution only has to be the height of the stove.

Cheers
Richard

 

[Richard C]

Unfortunately you’ve just discovered that Gypsum plaster is not suitable for use in fire openings or on the walls/chimney breast around a fire/stove. It will not withstand regular exposure above 49 degrees C, anything much higher & it will fail in the way you’ve described. Gypsum based products should not be used inside a fire opening or within 300mm either side & 800mm above the opening. The plaster behind the flue is obviously not being exposed to as much heat but it will also fail eventually if the temperature exceeds 49 degrees. I’ve measured temperatures in the high 90’s in the walls around a multi-fuel stove running at full tilt. You cannot use plasterboard (even Fireline) either, it is also Gypsum based & will fail for the same reason.

Suitabe lining materials are;
• Vitcas heatproof render
• Sand/cement/lime render
• Vitcas heatproof plaster for the finish (if needed)
• Lime plaster

For boarding out, only use a suitable boiler backer board (calcium silicate) but it must be mechanically fixed.
For tiling you can use a quality Rapidset tile adhesive (not flexible) which is good for up to 150 degrees C. If the plaster is failing, you’ll be wasting your time trying to patch over or attach to it & you may well have to remove the stove & start again.

Have a read through my standard stove post below, particularly the DIYnot links; the search facility will also bring up many stove installs you can look through.

--------------------------------000000000000000-----------------------------
As this comes up so often, I’ve put together this generic post; read the links but not all may apply to you.

You can DIY a stove install but you need to understand the Building Regs (which changed in October 2010), submit a Building Notice & pay a fee. Your LABC will inspect &, assuming everything is OK, issue a compliance certificate; the BI may want to witness smoke & spillage tests. No compliance certificate may lead to difficulties when you come to sell your property; if you cannot produce a compliance certificate in the event of a problem, your insurance company may invalidate your policy & reject any claim.

Lots of archive threads on this, & other things you have to watch out for, here a few links for you to read:
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_building_regulations.html
http://www.woodburnerwarehouse.co.uk/building_regualtions_for_stoves.phtml
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2010.pdf
http://www.hetas.co.uk/public/certificates.html
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/pdfs/buidling_regs_consumer leaflet.pdf
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=183614
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=211524
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=242738
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=224751
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1855590#1855590

& some more sobering reading just in case you think it’s all a load of old tosh:
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/main_pages/news.htm
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...wood-burning-stove-leaks-carbon-monoxide.html
http://www.eveningnews24.co.uk/news/warning_over_heaters_after_norfolk_couple_s_death_1_811099
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...ouple-dead-arms-sofa-overcome-coal-fumes.html

Also get at least 3 quotes from local independent HETAS installers:
http://www.hetas.co.uk/nearest_member

You might be pleasantly surprised & you should ask yourself if you really want all the hassle & risk getting it wrong; climbing onto the roof with an 8M stainless steel snake on your back is not for the feint hearted!

__________________


Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=267604&highlight=#ixzz1I6jlicut

 

[maka2k3]

i dont mind using a boiler backer board (calcium silicate) for example but i need to bring it off the wall a couple of inches, what would i use behind this? is wooden slats not exceptable? because it is going to be tiled fully would i be able to use normal plaster or tile straight onto the back board. I have never come across the boiler backer board your talking about so not sure what it looks like, where is the best place to buy this from?

As far as the flue liner goes thats not a problem as i am a heating engineer and have done this many times for gas fires etc, the stove fitting is just new for new but its in my own home.

regards dave

 

[Richard C]

i need to bring it off the wall a couple of inches, what would i use behind this? is wooden slats not exceptable?

No, I would not advise you use timber.

because it is going to be tiled fully would i be able to use normal plaster or tile straight onto the back board.

You can’t use gypsum (normal) plaster, as you’ve discovered it won’t stand the heat; you don’t need to plaster it anyway if tiling. To fix the tiles & withstand the heat (up to 150 degrees) you will need a powder cement based adhesive; http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/rapidset
To add the necessary flexibility for use over board, you will need an additive;
http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/admix-ad1

Do not use flexible powder adhesive instead as it will only withstand 100 degrees which is going to be marginal. Check with Supalux if a tile primer is needed.

I have never come across the boiler backer board your talking about so not sure what it looks like, where is the best place to buy this from?

http://www.promat.co.uk/products/fire-protection/supalux.aspx

As far as the flue liner goes thats not a problem as im a heating engineer and have done this many times for gas fires etc, the stove fitting is just new for new but its in my own home.

But what sort of heating engineer are you? HETAS it the registration authority for solid fuel appliances; if your not HETAS registered not then you can’t certify the flue & fire installation as compliant, it will be regarded as unauthorised building works unless you submit a Building Notice & have your LABC inspect/witness test it.