Strengthening and making more secure a storage/bike shed

[sentinal73]

Hi guys, In the next few weeks I am going to be putting up a new shed which will be mostly used to store 4 bikes and for storage of tools and garden equiment. The shed will be about 8'x 6', with no windows and the door along the width of it.

My plan is to hang the bikes vertically at one end of the shed, to save space. I presume that i will have to strengthen the shed so it will take the weight, and also protect it more from a security point of view as well.

I am thinking of installing diagonal braces to strengthen it and then boarding the inside with plywood. I have also read that its a good idea to line the inside of the shed with chicken wire too, to add additonal security (obviously before I board with plywood)

It will be installed onto a concrete base, so that I can attach an achor point to the concrete and chain the bikes up to this as well.

Also will upgrade any hinges and locks on the shed and fit an alarm.

Does this sound resonable, or is there anythign that I have missed? I know if someone does want to get into it, nothing will stop them.

I should do something with the roof, but not too sure how to approach that.

Thanks

 

[big-all]

12mm osb or sterling ply from your wood yard 4 sheets will cover the 3 walls

just mark where the uprights are on the floor and roof
you do not need diagonals on boarded walls
secure the boards with 8x1.5" or 8x1.75" screws every 6 to 8"
then you can hang what you like off the boards
any wall with less than 4 square foot off board will need a diagonal brace

i would also lay a 4ft sheet on the floor along one wall [6 foot or 8 ft]
this will allow for heavy traffic or even use off a workbench or workmate with a vice and use off a hammer without dammaging the floor

 

[sentinal73]

Thanks

any ideas strengthening the roof, especially from a security point of view?

Do you think i should also insulate the walls?

Cheers

 

[big-all]

my advice is never ever insulate without an air gap ventilation and a breathable membrane
buuut in the case off cheap sheds with little space

you can use loft insulation if the shed is 100% water tight if not you will get mould pretty quick

you need to treat the out side and do not treat the inside to let it breath
be prepared to remove the inner lining iff damp or mould appears and be prepaired to replace the insulation after sealing the leak and letting it dry 100%

you really dont need to do the roof unless there is a specific craze off breaking roofs no one will actually think off the roof as they will be highly visible

 

[JohnD]

rather than buy a thin cheap shed and strengthen it, you might think about building a stronger one. Round here they import what they call log cabins but are really made from softwood T&G about 100mm x35 which is pretty strong, although the doors and windows are flimsy.

I applaud the use of WBP ply since this has few joints a ne'erdowell can lever apart

I'd go for lots of reinforcement around the door hinges and locks. If you make it look scruffy and put a rusty lawnmower and some old paint tins in front of any window, people will think it's full of worthless scrap. You can put heavy shelving in front of windows to act as burglar bars.

A damp proof membrane will prevent moisure coming up through the floor which people usually forget about with sheds. Space the timber off the ground with bricks or paving slabs under the bearers as these will get damp and rot.

BTW chickenwire can be cut with nail scissors. Galvanised welded mesh is much tougher but not so cheap.

Paint the inside white if it has no lighting, it makes a big difference.

Plenty of rusty old tools nailed loosely or hung on the inside of the walls and door will jingle and rattle noisily if anyone has a go at it.

If you check your insurance it will probably not cover bikes unless they are in a brick shed with a BS lock on the door. Oddly this can be cheaper than a good wooden one.

 

[Whitworth]

I drilled out all my hinge fittings, hasp and replaced all the wood screws with coach bolts with large 'bumper washers' on the inside. Mine were tee hinges
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/97734...e-Hinges/Light-Duty-Tee-Hinge-102mm-Pack-of-2

where the fixings are exposed. Might not be the same as yours.