Strongest fixings for batten onto block

[Lilt]

I'm installing sound proofing onto the 9" block wall in my kitchen which is shared with the neighbour. I've done this in other rooms in the house with 25 x 38mm battens at 600 centres secured with brown plugs and 5 x 70 screws. Acoustic rockwool type insulation battens friction fitted in between and rubber backed blue plasterboard on top.

This has worked amazingly well in the rooms I've done so far, but what worries me in the kitchen is that the wall units will be too heavy for relatively small battens and rawl plugs and I might need something a bit more heavy duty?

Any advice welcomed!

 

[blup]

5x70 should be ok if the 70mm is fully in the block i.e nearer 100mm allowing for the batten. If tne block is not tne modern crumbly type, consider concrete screws as an alternative.

 

[thomp1983]

They'll be fine but I'd use 400 centres for the kitchen and use cabinet rail fixed into the batons to hang the cabinets on and it'll spread the weight across the walls.

 

[foxhole]

What type of block?

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

That should be fine for holding plasterboard up, but you can't dangle kitchen cabinets from 25mm thickness of wood. You need to drill through the 25mm battens and mount your kitchen cabinets directly into the block. You'll need some nice long plugs that will get a good grip into the block beyond the wood and plasterboard. Or concrete screws. Window/door frame fixings might do the job, either the type with or without plugs included. They're strong and come in long lengths. Check you don't drill right through to next door!

Alternatively just keep this one wall solid for the kitchen and just accept it's not soundproofed. It will probably be mostly covered in cupboards anyway, hopefully OK unless your neighbours run a nightclub.

 

[aveatry]

Alternatively just keep this one wall solid for the kitchen and just accept it's not soundproofed. It will probably be mostly covered in cupboards anyway, hopefully OK unless your neighbours run a nightclub.

This is what I was thinking. Maybe just used the rubber backed plasterboard on top of what you already have. Then you can use standard plugs and use a cabinet rail to spread the weight for sure, Use normal plugs but not the brown ones - I have used these for the first time last year and have fallen in love with them far better than the brown things.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Don't know how you'd mount the board without battens, I doubt it's suitable for dot & dab with the rubber backing.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Just checked, Muteboard reckon theirs can be mounted directly to block apparently.

But I'd expect it to be a bit bouncy unless squeezed on with screws. It might get pulled in where you mount the cabinets.

The more I think about it, the more I think it's a bad idea under wall units. You could possibly put a thicker batten at the height of the wall unit brackets that sits flush with the plasterboard, so the cabinets screw through wood into block. Their bottom edge would still be leaning on the board, but that would be well spread out. Caulk the gap between the batten and plasterboard before fitting the cabinets.

 

[aveatry]

Don't know how you'd mount the board without battens, I doubt it's suitable for dot & dab with the rubber backing.

That's a thought. But I was thinking of screwing the rubber backed stuff to the existing surface.

 

[noseall]

I'm installing sound proofing onto the 9" block wall in my kitchen which is shared with the neighbour. I've done this in other rooms in the house with 25 x 38mm battens at 600 centres secured with brown plugs and 5 x 70 screws. Acoustic rockwool type insulation battens friction fitted in between and rubber backed blue plasterboard on top.

This has worked amazingly well in the rooms I've done so far, but what worries me in the kitchen is that the wall units will be too heavy for relatively small battens and rawl plugs and I might need something a bit more heavy duty?

Any advice welcomed!

Fix the battens, then fix 18mm ply across or between the battens and forsake the Rockwool (if between) and then add plasterboard. The fitters can use a chunky 40mm screw to fix the wall unit hanging brackets. No issues there.