Sufficient Heat Output from this Radiator?

[wigwam12]

Okay now I accept I am asking a "how long is a piece of string" type question but please bear with me!

I have a 1.4m double "standard" radiator at the front on my living room but it is off as the tv etc are right in front of it.
I will wall mount the TV (in a stud wall) and will swap out this long horizontal rad for a vertical "designer" one
I have seen a couple which the wife approves of:
One is 1812 BTU (3 vertical panels 1800x300)
The other is 2456 BTU (4 panels but same dimensions)

Now 1812 BTU is ~£75. other is ~£130

The room is pretty long and while there are 2 small rads at the back near where the sofas are this is also where the air vent is so the room is cold without the open gas fire (also at front of room)


I have no perception of how "good"/hot 1800 BTU is

Any insight to help guide would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Whitespirit66]

I would use the radcalcs calculator to find out the heat requirements of the room. Then find out the approx output of the 2 rads that you are keeping (look at Screwfix site for rads of same size/type) and deduct this figure from the heat requirements. Then you know what output the new rad should be.

Leave the gas fire out of the equation, and try to heat the room solely on the ch as will be cheaper. Unless your TV is touching the rad, it should be OK to use the rad behind it. TVs do actually get quite hot themselves.

http://www.radcalcs.com/

 

[wigwam12]

Many thanks
That is interesting.
I have to 700 x 600 double rads at the back (one behind a single seater sofa) which Screwfix says are 3320 each
Radcalc says rooms needs 15800 BTU
So the 2400 AT LEAST it will have to be!

 

[hansthebear]

Are you sure the rads arent being quoted as watts?

 

[wigwam12]

I double-checked and it is "BTU Rated"

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310327167...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[Agile]

For the last 40 years heat outputs should have been quoted in Watts!

BTUs are from the days of steam engines!

 

[CBF]

I still use BTU's

 

[CBF]

1800 BTU's isn't enough for a small bedroom let alone a big lounge

 

[wigwam12]

Thanks.
Having looked at the matter with the benefit of that link whitespirit66 kindly provided I am beginning to see that.
I will ask builder to see if the 376mm one will fit (I think it will) and at least that is 3000BTU vs 1800 (albeit costing twice as much).

Since the current one is largely obscured by the tv/AV table and also turned down I figure the newer one albeit less BTU will at least provide a steady heat source for the front of the room.

The biggest problem in terms of comfort though is the air vent right at the back of the room next to the seating area as it is arctic there with the cold air in this weather.

Any suggestions on what can be done about that? It is on the only outside wall sadly so can't see where else I could possibly move it to.

 

[bolshy]

A kW is 3412 BTUs. A BTU is the energy required to raise the temperature of a pound in weight of water by 1 ° Fahrenheit at one atmosphere of pressure, roughly equivalent to burning the whole of a swan vesta match.

Is your air vent purpose provided ventilation for gas appliances?

 

[wigwam12]

Yes - at the front of the room (offset to the side) there is an open coal-effect gas fireplace.
Sods law is that we have to light the fire even on a low flame to stop draughts coming in via that.
Sealing it (fireplace I mean) not safe as SWMBO enjoys showing off the effect anyway.

 

[FiremanT]

[Yes - at the front of the room (offset to the side) there is an open coal-effect gas fireplace.
s***s law is that we have to light the fire even on a low flame to stop draughts coming in via that.
Sealing it (fireplace I mean) not safe as SWMBO enjoys showing off the effect anyway

Does the fire NEED a vent. Post make model and rated input. A lot of vents are left after a back boiler removal, and can be safely removed. DO NOT DO THIS without specific advice.

If the fire does need a vent, then it is highly likely that it is massively inefficient,especailly taking the vent into account. If you have a "standard" opening, consider upgrading the fire to a more efficient model

 

[wigwam12]

Sadly I have no idea.
Been in the house only 2 months and don't have any paperwork about it.
I did have my annual British Gas service a couple of weeks ago and paid extra for it to be serviced too and he also said he didn't know such details but that the draw test etc from it was fine.

Pity I didn't ask for a draw test with the vent covered but it is usually a no-no.

Boiler has not been in that room for at least 9 years that I know of (as it is in the kitchen and 9 years old) so I suspect vent was for the fire.

It is a "period" old fashioned faux-coal open gas fire. Pulls alot of gas as the meter goes mad when it is on

 

[JohnD]

It is a "period" old fashioned faux-coal open gas fire. Pulls alot of gas as the meter goes mad when it is on

In the interests of economy, I suggest you burn £5 notes instead.

 

[bolshy]

It could be that the old boiler was a back boiler/gas fire set. We need the model of gas fire and it's rated input (there should be some sort of data plate on it near the controls). It sounds like it could be a DFE, in which case the vent will have to stay, unless the manufacturer can be identified and they say otherwise.