Suggestions for a suitable base for a shed on this patio?

[and1c]

I am planning to fit a garden shed/workshop approx 10ft length x 8ft width on this 'front garden/patio' area at my house. It will have heavy stuff in it such as a couple of car engines, engine crane storage, metal workbench, tools etc

The patio as can be seen is quite old and weathered however I dont want to have to rip it up to lay a concrete base because the shed may not be permanent if I come to sell the house in the next year or two which is quite possible (if I sell the house I will dismantle and take it!).

It is to be used for a mini workshop and will have mains lighting, power,alarm and so on...

Can anyone advise me the folowing please:

1/ What base would be suitable for this shed (prebought Walton cheapo shed or slightly better quality)
2/Is it worth re enforcing the shed internally with timber as they are not exactly well made?
3/I want it semi warm - will 50mm kingspan internally covered with? do the trick?
4/DPM....depends on the base but I was thinking to lay some more plain slabs on the old patio (weedkill heavily first) and then DPC under them and then timber to support the floor? Whats the best way to get a 1:100 slope unless Im using concrete of course and its easier!
5/ Electrics - I think I am going to get an electrician in to do the electrical work but what as a minimum do I need safety wise (armoured cable, RCD? etc)

edit// I was also going to 'wrap' the shed floor underside in felt and fasten it 3 inch up each side....is it worht doing this?

Thanks for any help

 

[Deluks]

1) 6 fence posts, 3 or 4", 8ft long, spaced 2 ft apart. Or cheapo paving slabs spaced 2ft apart in all directions.

2) Yes!

3) Yes, but be sure to tape up all joints, otherwise you might get condensation forming behind the boards. Or completely cover them with polythene and ply over this (9mm or thicker) ...and put a couple of vents in!

4) Good idea, slope not necessary as water will run off the roof, down the walls and onto the ground below.

5) If this is right near to the house, and you will only need basic lighting and somewhere to plug in a drill, then I'd just run an extension cable from the house, make sure it's arctic grade (external) cable.
If you will be running other power tools/ bench machines or heating then go with the sparks suggestions. (see the electrics forum, plenty of power-to-shed questions already answered)

6) Not really, no point in going completely under as it will mainly be dry beneath. You could use felt to make a 'skirt' which tucks underneath 6 inches or so to protect from water splashing up from the patio.

If you sell up the new owner might want to use the shed. If so let them have it, much less hassle and you can plan an all new singing dancing bigger better shed for your new home. The estate agent will probably tell you to lose it though tbh, or stick it in the back garden.

 

[and1c]

Deluks

Thanks very much for your time and suggestions. Very Helpful.

Sorry for the 2 number (4) bullet points!, corrected now!

With regards to

1/ I am slightly concerned that these options will not offer enough floor support for a 250kg engine and engine stand?
Can I space paving slabs much closer together? like 1/2 foot gap in all directions? Is this workable?

2/ Will do, thanks!

3/ Interesting, thanks a lot. Thinking on it, with Kingspan and 9mm ply or thicker its going to end up quite an expensive 'cheap' shed
maybe I will just Kingspan it and seal the joints as you have said


4/ will do this then. thanks

5/ i need mains lighting and also for power tools, welder and other stuff!
Im just going to have to research in to the best way to do it.
I also want to have a wired PIR in there as there will end up being a lot of valuable stuff in the end .

6/ok, cheers.
If the estate agent tells me to get rid, ive got a problem! becuase theres no back garden or I would definately prefer to put it there.
The back garden is terraced slopes, mainly rockeries and all patio!!
lazy old people owned the house before so no grass....YET!

 

[Thermo]

lay some sleepers down and lay a sheet of ply over the actual floor of the shed, the waltons stuff is like tissue paper anyway. It will take the weight and it can all be taken up with no permanent damage.

 

[Deluks]

I suggested ply to protect the polythene vapour barrier or tape joints. You could always use plasterboard/chipboard, but be prepare for the 'dings'

 

[and1c]

Thermo// thanks
Good suggestion. I think I will definately do that for the floor. Thick ply will be more than strong enough for what I need I imagine.

Deluks//

I understood re your suggestion for ply to protect the vapour barrier.
Tis a darn good one and I think I will end up doing it to be honest because I've never been a big chipboard fan (especially if it does get damp for any reason!) and I think it is by far the best way to make a good job of it, even if it costs me a bit more.

While I realise you dont get much roofspace in sheds but is it worthwhile to kingspan the entire roof underside and board on top of that?
I imagine a LOT of heat will be lost through the roof?

The more I think about this the more I'm drawn to building a custom shed from a set of plans
However I know it will take me much longer and cost a lot more, even if the finished product is far superior to a Waltons off the shelf job (hopefully it would be anyway)

 

[and1c]

Additionally, I was thinking that the poxy glass that this type of OTS shed comes with may be a problem

1/ zero security
2/nil warmth retention

Is it worth kingspanning the shed only to leave this paper thin glass in?

No, thought not

Any suggestions as to the best course of action? I could either remove the glass and make a wooden frame and fit a double glazed unit...

or/

Block up the window opening,but I think the natural light will be quite useful so I dont want to do this really.

The shed comes with 2 windows and cant be specced without it (this model that is the right size and double doors etc)

 

[Deluks]

Locate some clear polycarb and fit it inside as 'secondary glazing' Plenty of silicone around the perimeter to make it near enough airtight and screw it into the window frame, (which will probably need beefing up anyway)

Lots of peoples in this and the wood/carpentry forum have pondered whether to build or buy (or restore!) sheds. Have a good look through past threads for shed related posts and have a good read.

You will come across lots of pics of Big-all's shed (god knows he already has!)
Those BA shed pics should get their own sticky.

No pun intended!

 

[and1c]

Locate some clear polycarb and fit it inside as 'secondary glazing' Plenty of silicone around the perimeter to make it near enough airtight and screw it into the window frame, (which will probably need beefing up anyway)

Lots of peoples in this and the wood/carpentry forum have pondered whether to build or buy (or restore!) sheds. Have a good look through past threads for shed related posts and have a good read.

You will come across lots of pics of Big-all's shed (god knows he already has!)
Those BA shed pics should get their own sticky.

No pun intended!

Indeed, Ive searched the forum heavily but it took a long time to find a thread on big_all s shed! 2 forums away from here in the end

I wish the project section was better organised and stickies made of decent threads. It would make finding relevant info much easier!

Thanks for the window tip, i will do that if I dont go custom shed and fit a double glazed pane

edit//


Does anyone have any good recommended timber sources in South Yorkshire?
The ones I usually use (Arnold Lavers is one) really know how to charge, so any good suppliers for shiplap and the other materials I will need would be excellent. I can open a trade account if necessary.

Im hoping to come in under £1000 all in for materials going on the prices some much bigger sheds have been made for on here. Hopefully Im not dreaming with this estimate