Suitable Door Lock

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Balcony door currently has a nightlatch, which is terrible as the you get locked out if the wind slams the door shut.

So, I was after advice on a suitable replacement lock and door handle.

The door does look like it has previously had some sort of mortice lock installed in the past, so I put a tape measure to show the length of the chiselled parts

As it is a balcony door, i only need it to lock internally
 

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Maybe a surface mounted lock and handle as easier for a DIY person then a tub of 2 pack wood filler used on everything to tidy old fitting spaces and paint.
Think I'd add a vertical bolt as well...

 
Maybe a surface mounted lock and handle as easier for a DIY person then a tub of 2 pack wood filler used on everything to tidy old fitting spaces and paint.
Think I'd add a vertical bolt as well...


Many thanks @Wayners

Although grateful for the suggestion, I think that the surface mounted lock would look horrible.

I am quite 'competent' with woodwork.. Could you suggest something that would be a 'better job' please?

The more suggestions the better.
 
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Ok. If you are felling confident then a mortice lock will do.
Also some 2 pack wood filler and decent masking tape like yellow frog tape.
Use the masking tape before you fill woodwork and just as the two pack is setting pull tape.
I'd fill some of the woodwork first.
Get lock in.
I use the masking tape to cover the metal on lock along the edge and fill around with the 2 pack. Just as it's setting pull tape.
More masking.
Sand and fill again. Just as setting pull masking tape off. Will keep filler tidy.
I've made good hinges and locks. Latch plates ect by using making tape and 2 pack wood filler.
You have a bit of tidying to do with woodwork.
 
You could get a Half Thumb Turn Euro Cylinder, and the lock to go with it.


Alternatively, if you are worried about someone smashing the glass to turn the knob, as @^woody^ said, get a key based mortice lock. You don't need to drill the hole for key use outside.

 
Measure the existing mortice height and width. Mortice locks are commonly made with two-and-a-half inch case widths; three inch and two inches are also available.

They are now sold in nominally metric measurements that are an approximation of those sizes.

Then, measure the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the keyhole, and knob spindle hole, if there is one. This is called the backset.

you do not need an external keyhole in your case.

British Standard BS3621 five lever thief resisting locks are the best you can get.

Eurocylinder locks are easy to fit and to burgle but not as good.
 
Measure the existing mortice height and width. Mortice locks are commonly made with two-and-a-half inch case widths; three inch and two inches are also available.
There is no existing mortice in place. Just a cutout/hole where a old mortice appeared to be

However, with my tape measurer I can see that a two-and-a-half inch width mortice would fit
They are now sold in nominally metric measurements that are an approximation of those sizes.

Then, measure the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the keyhole, and knob spindle hole, if there is one. This is called the backset.
After removing the existing night latch. I see a cutout for the keyhole (images attached below)

from the edge of the door to the centre of the hole is Approx 28mm..

There is no knob spindle hole


you do not need an external keyhole in your case.

British Standard BS3621 five lever thief resisting locks are the best you can get.

Eurocylinder locks are easy to fit and to burgle but not as good.
Not worried about this tbh. It can be a basic lock, thumb turn etc.

Neighbours are good and unless you're spiderman, nobody would ever have access to the door
 

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The keyhole backset is surprisingly small, I think it probably had a narrow stile lock before. This is more common if the stiles of the door are narrow. Even a 2 inch lock often has a backset around 35mm.

You did not mention the height of the mortice. If you measure it I will see if I can identify a lock to fit. If not, it is easier to drill a keyhole than to alter a mortice.

The mortice is the cavity. A mortice lock is a lock that fits into a mortice.
 
The keyhole backset is surprisingly small, I think it probably had a narrow stile lock before. This is more common if the stiles of the door are narrow.
I think you're right.
You did not mention the height of the mortice. If you measure it I will see if I can identify a lock to fit. I
From the image attached

A - 22 (min)-25mm (max) - Width

B - 122mm (approx) - Height

.

The mortice is the cavity. A mortice lock is a lock that fits into a mortice.
Thanks, didn't know this. Learning everyday.
 

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I think there is a Legge that is about right, an older design, I will have a look.
 
@JohnD Do you know of a lock that'll fit the mortice?
Hello, The one I was thinking of was a Legge two-inch, you seldom see other makes. I've had a look in my store, but can't find any.

Also called "narrow stile"

A factory is using the equipment to make the old design again now.

They crop up on ebay occasionally, as old stock or used ones.

If I come across one in the near future, I'll post again.

There is a very good Chubb (rebranded as Union) 3G220, but it is quite expensive unless you see a used one. I would have to charge £40, which is less than half retail.

There are heaps of 2 1/2" locks if that would do.

A bathroom lock like this needs no key, you lock it with a thumbturn.

 
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BTW, as you have some splits in the wood, I suggesting some EvoStik wood glue (blue bottle, which is damp proof), clamps and glue syringes. Wedge the cracks open with a knife, inject the glue, remove the wedges, clamp tight, leave 12 hours. It is very strong.
 
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