Support for Stairs

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Hi
My stairs have a leg ('L' in photo) which I'd like to remove to create a more useful space under the stairs (probably paneled storage cupboards). However I don't know whether the leg is decorative or supporting. If not supporting, I presume I could just remove it. If it is supporting, could I install an RSJ from wall point 'A' to wall point 'B' (see photo) and then remove the leg? The RSJ would be high and tight against the underside of the stair structure with wedges to take up any gap.


Stairs 1.jpeg


Alternatively, what other options do I have?

Thanks,

Mark
Lincolnshire.
 
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It looks to be structural so the RSJ (or a C24 timber joist) would be the way to go
 
I'm actually in the process of replacing the carpet with oak flooring, hence the boxes under the stairs. Upon taking up the carpet and underlay I found that there was a 3 mm air gap under all this 3 inch x 5 inch support post, bar a 1 x 3 inch wedge at one end. On knocking the wedge out, the 3 mm gap did not close (see photo). I then got my wife to stand half way up the stairs (she comes in handy now and then), directly above the support post, and the gap still did not close. I'm starting to think the post is there to give the hand rail and post directly above, an anchor to stop it moving.

Stairs 2.jpg


I think I'll remove the post (all bar the top 6 inches) and support the stairs with an RSJ (actually use your suggestion of a C24 timber joist). I'll then screw the 6 inch stub to the timber joist to maintain that anchoring effect for the handrail above. I see the local builders merchant do a 47 mm joist hanger and 46mm x 97 mm PSE softwood.

Sound good?

Mark
 
Yes. But what is the span of the joists going to be?
 
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The distance from A to B is 1.8 metres. The dimension perpendicular to this (back wall to A) is 800 mm; so I suppose I could put in 2 joists at a 400 mm pitch, but I'm not sure 2 would be necessary.

Mark
 
My stairs have a leg ('L' in photo) which I'd like to remove to create a more useful space under the stairs (probably paneled storage cupboards).
Are you really going to get a better cupbaord though? What you gain from no column will be lost in height from the beam/joist.

I would suggest a cupboard where the corner is the support, which it may/may not be in a slightly different place to the current support e.g. if you want to run flush with the wall at 'A'.
 

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