Switched live from under cupboard flourescents.

[semi-acoustic]

Hi All

I recently replaced some light fittings in my home and did the correct thing by taking photographs first, all good.
Unfortunately was replacing a pendant to a bayonet in my kitchen and did not take a photo, lesson learnt,
I noticed there were four cables coming into the ceiling rose, loop in, loop out, switched live for kitchen light, the fourth goes to three
under cupboard 900mm flourescents.
I have replaced three of the cables and have my kitchen light working as normal, from the fourth cable I placed the red live wire into the loop terminal, the earth to the earth terminal, the black neutral which was not sleeved I left it unconnected and put a test probe on it, no voltage, turned on the switch to the flourescents and there was voltage which tells me it is a switched live.
My question is where do I connect this switched live to ?
Any advice would be truly appreciated.

 

[terryplumb]

Your post is a little unclear, is it only the Fleuro cabinet lights that are not working?
Is every other light fitting in all rooms that are on the same circuit working ok ?

 

[SUNRAY]

A picture paints a thousand words to reply to a question I'm not sure what is being asked.

 

[EFLImpudence]

, the black neutral which was not sleeved I left it unconnected and put a test probe on it, no voltage, turned on the switch to the flourescents and there was voltage which tells me it is a switched live.

A disconnected 'neutral' will be live - and actually will not be a 'neutral' until connected.

 

[RandomGrinch]

A disconnected 'neutral' will be live - and actually will not be a 'neutral' until connected.

Was just about to say the same.
It sounds like this to me...

 

[EFLImpudence]

Agreed - just drew similar.

 

[terryplumb]

Is there only one switch that operates the kitchen light and also the under cabinet fluorescents ?

 

[SUNRAY]

A picture paints a thousand words to reply to a question I'm not sure what is being asked.
View attachment 355050

To clarify, the above is how I believe it should be connected, please excuse the harmonised colours, my blue equates to your blacks and brown to your reds

 

[SUNRAY]

Was just about to say the same.
It sounds like this to me...

View attachment 355054

I believe Semi Acoustic had done this before posting:

 

[SUNRAY]

Agreed - just drew similar.

I believe Semi Acoustic had done this before posting:

 

[RandomGrinch]

I believe Semi Acoustic had done this before posting:View attachment 355064

Yes, that's what I meant, I didn't double check your diagram - I thought it was a standard loop
Though, the black should still be connected to Neutral, whichever of our diagrams it follows.

 

[ebee]

Do not forget that lighting circuits are almost exclusively radial circuits. Any radial circuit, be it power or lighting, can have any topology.
The bog standard simple radial goes from point to point until the last one.
So all points have a loop in and a loop out except the last one in the chain and then it only has the loop in and no loop out.
Of course if it is a lighting circuit it will also have a switchwire therefore you often get three twin and earths on all but the last point in the chain which only has two.
That is the bog standard basic set up for the loop in method.
However, any circuit ( lighting or power) can be wired as "a tree") so branching out in all directions in a tree like fashion (including at the fuseway).
Seems what you might have is a loop in loop out and switchwire in the basic design and the an addition of the fourth wire to go to the fluorescents and thereby connected to L E N, maybe visiting a separate switch on the route or maybe relying on pull or push switches on the fluorescents themselves.

 

[boringoldcodger]

turned on the switch to the flourescents and there was voltage which tells me it is a switched live

If by that you mean there's a switch which controls only the fluorescents then I believe you connect the "floating" black in with the neutrals.
When you supplied 240V to the fluorescents then they had no neutral connection so (what should have been) their neutral wire went up to 240V.

 

[SUNRAY]

If by that you mean there's a switch which controls only the fluorescents then I believe you connect the "floating" black in with the neutrals.
When you supplied 240V to the fluorescents then they had no neutral connection so (what should have been) their neutral wire went up to 240V.

Ah for some reason I read the OP as the wall switch is to control the fluo's too (and assuming each fluo fitting has its own integral switch), which is how I drew the sketch in post#3.
If OP requires permanent supply to the flou and switch[es] then the red does go to 'loop' viz:

I'll use the excuse that OP didn't make clear what is required