T-moulding gap blunder

[sinspider]

Hi all,
Just realised a stupid mistake.
I have laid laminate flooring in few rooms but the place where two laminate floors meet (just under the door), the gap is not in a straight line. So, I am unable to put a T-moulding in place.

Do I have any other option other than removing all the flooring and re-laying them.

I have noticed in some offices that there are a some plastic / rubber sheets that join two laminate floors. I dont know what they are called.

Please ... please.. advise how to solve this.

 

[mattylad]

If you are saying that the 2 floors are not the same height, then there are moulding strips that will take this into account.

Have you asked at your local flooring supplier (where you got the laminate?)

 

[big-all]

how many mm are you talking if its only a few use a normal ally strip and angle it

one off these
http://www.toolstation.com/documents/search/index.html?searchstr=49955

 

[sinspider]

Mattylad, Thanks for the reply. The floors are of the same height.

I was talking about the place where the two floors meet. The expansion gap is not a straight-lined gap, because the laminate floor panes were not cut evenly. Therefore, it does not allow the T-moulding track to be placed in it. I have attached a picture. Please check this.

//www.diynot.com/network/sinspider/albums/6433/25858

If you are saying that the 2 floors are not the same height, then there are moulding strips that will take this into account.

Have you asked at your local flooring supplier (where you got the laminate?)

 

[sinspider]

Big-All,
Thanks for your response. I was talking about the gap which is zig-zagged.
Here is the picture for it. Can you suggest what can I use to cover this gap?

//www.diynot.com/network/sinspider/albums/6433/25858

how many mm are you talking if its only a few use a normal ally strip and angle it

one off these
http://www.toolstation.com/documents/search/index.html?searchstr=49955[/QUOTE]

 

[Donkmeister]

I'd try one of two options:

1) Router. Clamp a long spirit level to either side of the door aperture, at floor level. Use a router to rout out a nice straight gap for the moulding track.

You'll need to use a laminate bit that is a couple of mm wider than the moulding track, and set your depth stop carefully! You only want to route down as deep as the laminate boards, you should be able to cut the underlay no problem, and you want to avoid cutting into the floor (especially if it's concrete!).

Measure carefully, you may need to space the level back from the frame with a couple of bits of wood.

Then, once you've routed, use a sharp chisel to cut out the last few centimetres where you can't get the router right to the edge of the door aperture.

2) Circular saw.

Much the same as using a router (spirit level as a guide, set depth stop etc), but will chip the laminate more and is more likely to wander off the line.

 

[Ricardus]

2) Circular saw.

Much the same as using a router (spirit level as a guide, set depth stop etc), but will chip the laminate more and is more likely to wander off the line.

I'd have said a Dremel and a careful eye. If you're covering the top with a T-Piece then you wont need a 100% clean edge so just worry about big splinters.

 

[Donkmeister]

I'd have said a Dremel and a careful eye. If you're covering the top with a T-Piece then you wont need a 100% clean edge so just worry about big splinters.

If using a Dremel, that careful eye should definitely have protection for when the discs start shattering!

Dremel did a miniature circular saw attachment the last time I was buying Dremel accessories, that could be a great use for that. I'm not sure if the regular cutting discs would last long enough to cut to the bottom of laminate flooring, I've only used mine on metal and even on soft ally the discs get eaten away very quickly.