Tabletop bevel/chamfer best practice?

[gizmo1990]

I've made a wooden oak tabletop (rectangular shaped) which I'm in the process of final sanding. I've just realised though that it could do with a small chamfer along its edges as it's got a very hard edge currently.

Before I get a suitable router bit I thought I'd ask here if there's a best practice for the size and shape of a tabletop's chamfer/bevel? For instance is a 45 or 60 degree bevel appropriate? What size should the bevel be? Or am I over thinking all of this and it just comes down to personal preference?

If any knowledgable members have any thoughts on the subject I'd really appreciate hearing them.

 

[Notch7]

it is of course entirely personal choice, however as a guide Id say; if you just want to soften the edge a little bit but not make a feature, then a 3mm across the flat works -thats what I tend to do on furniture. if you go larger say 6mm across the flat, you are making a feature of it and it can start to look angular

personally Id do top and bottom


On oak using a ball bearing guided bit and a small chamfer you might be best climb cutting as that is less likely to chip out

Also be careful to not stop anywhere are burn marks are very difficult to get out on oak

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Normally on table tops they're merely sanded a bit to give a small radius. On something where it's very easy to screw up unless you're quite proficient with a router a sanding block would be my go to.

 

[gizmo1990]

@Notch7 Thanks a lot for that. You've nailed what I failed to explain properly. That I want the bevel to soften, definitely not as a feature. I was worried about going too far in that territory so knowing that 3mm measurement is great.

Do you use a 45 degree bit?

 

[gizmo1990]

Normally on table tops they're merely sanded a bit to give a small radius. On something where it's very easy to screw up unless you're quite proficient with a router a sanding block would be my go to.

Whenever I done something similar in the past I've found that I've never achieved a really top finish that way. There's always a bit of 'wander' that creeps in and ruins it. I guess it's down to my own carpentry skills! However I've found using a router to give really good consistent results. As long as you setup and prep really thoroughly beforehand and be confident.

 

[mrrusty]

For a tiny soft bevel I'd be running my little low angle block plane down the corner edge a couple of times, followed by a light sand.