Taking it outside

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I could use some advice and experience regarding supplying power to an Ext socket and power for a pond pump.

I have a switch fuse spur (fed w 2.5 t&e either on DS ring or on own cct undecided) to supply power to an outside cupboard fitted directly to the back of the house.

I've managed to get out of the back box straight through the wall in white plastic conduit. And will run the conduit through the fittings and out the cupboard along a wall to the pond.

I am thinking to use a ip54 20A 2G switch and a ip54 socket inside the cupbboard. And want to wire the pump (200w) and socket off the 2G switch. The socket will normally supply a pond air pump (200w) but would also likely be used for a lawnmower.

I was thinking to run perhaps 1.5mm arctic (?) in the conduit to the pond and use a waterproof connector to connect the cables that would be out of the pond but still in a 'damp/wet' but inaccessable location.

I could use an adaptable box to connect the cables but I can't find a way of getting a waterproof connection from plastic 20mm conduit (heavy guage). (Unless it is already IP rated enough if glued and with a lid gasket?)

Do I need a FCU between the 2G switch and the pond pump or would the RCD or RCBO trip before a 3A fuse would blow if there were a problem with the pump or cable?

Is it necessary to put a switched FCU inside the cupboard for isolatation?

If anyone has any suggestions or there are problems with what I'm thinking please let me know.

Thanks.
 
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I have a switch fuse spur (fed w 2.5 t&e either on DS ring or on own cct undecided) to supply power to an outside cupboard fitted directly to the back of the house.

...

Is it necessary to put a switched FCU inside the cupboard for isolation?

No, the switched FCU inside the house will provide a means of isolation.

I was thinking to run perhaps 1.5mm arctic (?) in the conduit to the pond and use a waterproof connector to connect the cables that would be out of the pond but still in a 'damp/wet' but inaccessable location.

I could use an adaptable box to connect the cables but I can't find a way of getting a waterproof connection from plastic 20mm conduit (heavy guage). (Unless it is already IP rated enough if glued and with a lid gasket?)

An adaptable box or conduit 'through' box with gasket and lid should be adequate IMO, although I'm not sure what the IP rating of this arrangement would be. Alternatively, fit an m20 gland to the end of the conduit run and bring out the arctic flex, then use an IP67/IP68 flex connector to join to the pond pump. Rather than a fixed connector, you could use a waterproof plug/socket arrangement to make servicing easier.

Do I need a FCU between the 2G switch and the pond pump or would the RCD or RCBO trip before a 3A fuse would blow if there were a problem with the pump or cable?

RCDs do not provide the same form of protection as a fuse. An RCD protects against earth faults, a fuse provides overcurrent protection. As the fuse in the switched FCU inside the house is likely to be 13A as it's feeding the outdoor weatherproof socket, another FCU will be needed to supply the pump, otherwise the only overcurrent protection will be the 13A fuse downstream.

Alternatively, fit a double weatherproof socket and have the pond pump plugged in, or use a weatherproof FCU local to the pump itself and kill two birds with one stone, as this would provide a means for you to connect the flex from the pump.
 
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you seem to be well aware of the fittings needed so this may sound obvious,

remember alot of "waterproof" ip rated sockets are only waterproof while closed. while the plug is actually plugged in, they are not waterproof. it's quite often in the small print somewhere.

only the boxes which allow the plug to be plugged in and then the lid screwed shut over the top of it are truly waterproof while in use.

sorry if this was obvious :)
 
the better outdoor sockets have a lid that fits over the plug and clips in place so they are IP rated whether or not there is a plug in.

but yeah some cheap **** ones don't do this, look carefully before buying.
 
I dropped the switch and just went for 2 single switched sockets that are ip55 (Not cheap just s*** :) )
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SPSP15.html
Thats cheap. And ****.

And what on earth is the point of an IP rated socket, then having something permenantly plugged into it, thus voiding the IP rating???

And then putting it somewhere that an IP rating is not really nessecary!!!

MK Masterseal sockets would be IP rated when loaded.
 
MK56480.JPG


Although many MK products are now sold on the brand name, rather than improved quality, these sockets really are much better than other types.
 
Thats cheap. And s**t.

Funny you should say that... Cause I was going to. I wanted something low cost with a switch that was more durable than a socket and surface box as I often have wet hands when messing with the pond. I will cut an x in the rubber cover so the lid can stay down and the switch stays covered with the plug in.

I didn't know what the requirements were so I thought if I ran in conduit and used the ip rated crap it couldn't hurt. I did notice some condensation on the wall the socket is fitted to recently and at least the back of it is well protected :LOL:

If it were 'my house' I would (Maybe still should.) have spent the extra and gone for a Masterseal setup. But tis all done now and I have shedloads more to do.

Thanks for all your help.
 
I will cut an x in the rubber cover so the lid can stay down and the switch stays covered with the plug in.

wont work

SPSP15.JPG


clear bit is level with socket when lid down. if there is a plug in the socket you will not be able to put the lid down.

in short its of no use for what you want
 

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