Tamper Fault Lockout (again!)

[Rekusu]

What ho all self isolators,

I have been researching a Tamper Fault Lockout message on my Accenta G4 Mini RKP and can find lots of solutions, but don't feel any further forward in solving the issue.

At the weekend, I moved the garage RKP about 6 cms because it was too close to a wall hanging ladder. I did post a question about turning off the alarm https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/reposition-rkp.545143/

All went well, reactivated the system then had to assemble the RKP case again. (The plastic tabs had snapped off (UV, 10 years old RKP) so was applying some tape to hold the front to the back.) When I removed the front, the alarm did not activate, so did not have to enter my code.

Got things straight and reassembled again and all is good; tested the alarm, it is set and the bell operates.

However, for the last two days, every now and again, the RKP sounder had gone off and shows Tamper Fault. My code and a reset and all is good.

Tonight, it happened again, and now it shows Tamper Fault Lockout. Since I only moved the RKP, I assume the RKP tamper spring / micro switch is at fault. I did not disconnect any of the wires when I actually moved the RKP.

What should I do to reset the Lockout situation? As an aside, I installed the alarm myself ten years ago and it has been working just fine.

Thanks and toodle pip

 

[Handymanjo]

Adjust the spring on rkp
When the room gets warm causing the plastic to expand ,apply the tape by rapping around rkp.
Look on ebay for replacement rkp ASAP and this should stop the problem.

 

[Rekusu]

Interesting and thanks. It really annoys me that I will have to replace the RKP because the quality of manufacture of the plastic box is so poor. Most likely, a Made in China bit of expletive deleted.

 

[Rekusu]

This garage RKP has a 30 sec entry / exit timer set.

Can I take the tamper off-line? Presumably, doing so would not affect the operation of the RKP, just means that if it is ripped from the wall .....? But to rip it from the wall, they would have already activates the timer countdown, which presumably, if then ripped from the wall, the alarm would still sound anyway?

What do I need to do to remove the tamper?

Again, thanks

 

[Handymanjo]

All plastics go brittle over s period of time.The same also can happen to lid on PIRS.
Link out tamper on control panel pcb for the keypad. This is the terminal block on left-hand side of pcb J5.Put wire link across tamp this will isolate tamper from the keypad.

 

[Rekusu]

Thanks. Will this remove tamper from both RKP (I have two, front door and garage; the garage also has PIR coverage) If no tamper and the PIR is activated, after the entry countdown, the alarm will sound if not deactivated by myself?

 

[Handymanjo]

If linked out in control panel then both keypad will not have tamper protection.
Link out tamper will have no effect on countdown timer.

 

[Rekusu]

Understand and many thanks. Your advice is much appreciated.

 

[sparkymarka]

Just twist the two tamper wires together in the effected keypad and put both in one of the tamper terminals in that keypad ...that way if the cable is cut or damaged it will still indicate an issue ...plus if you ever change the keypad you don’t have to go into the control panel again ...

 

[Rekusu]

Again, many thanks.

Today, I removed the insulation tape holding the case together, stretched the tamper spring a bit and replaced the case, ensuring the tape was tight. Low and behold, the Tamper Lockout Fault message has gone and the system appears to be working as it should.

I think I will contact Honeywell and whinge about the poor quality of the case; perhaps i will strike lucky and they will replace the case.

I know that plastics deteriorate with UV light but why don't plastic light switches and sockets also deteriorate? They don't even discolour.

 

[sparkymarka]

Different plastic for a start ...plus the panel is the cheapest of the cheap ...

 

[Rekusu]

Just to be clear, there are two options.

1/ remove the two tamp wires on the RKP and join them together. This maintains the connectivity but has taken the dodgy RKP out of the loop.

2/ On the control panel, remove the two tamp wires and link the two terminals with the U shaped link thing. Do not join the wires. (or should I join them?) This takes all RKPs out of the tamper loop.

2 is what I have done at the moment until I work out what to do with the annoying RKP.

Is that correct?

Thanks and stay safe

 

[sparkymarka]

Option 1 proves it’s the keypad and not faulty wiring ....

 

[Rekusu]

Thanks; I will change to 1 in the morning. But is 2 also OK?

It could be dodgy wiring but until I moved the RKP 6cms, there has not been any problems. I personally think the problem is that in access the RKP, the two top tabs snapped off, and the stupidly designed tab on the bottom, that the screw goes through, has also lost a bit of plastic. So there is nothing much holding the tamper spring down. There is sufficient pressure on the spring to push the cover out just a smidgen and that activates the tamper sound on the keypad.

I am considering some options to hold the cover in place probably with some small self taping screws.

Frankly, the whole thing is just badly designed. The cover is held in the closed position by an angle on the cover hinge pins and the 'spring' pressure of the plastic. That gave up some time ago and until I moved the RKP, the default cover position was open (hanging down.) I have fixed that with a small screw and a small, flat magnet.

Electronically, I am more than happy, it does what it says on the box.

 

[Rekusu]

Just a heads-up and thank you for the advice.

Took the tamper fault RKP off-line and the fault did not reappear on the front door RKP. So have figured out a way to tightly 'hold the front to the back which has for the past 24 hrs, not produced a temper fault.

Using epoxy, I glued a slightly longer tab to the broken bits the hook in at the top. then drilled through the outer casing into the tab and have locked them together with a removable wire pin. Also added a slightly large self taper to the bottom fixing.

While it was off the wall, have 'fixed' the UV discolouration issue by respraying. Back on the wall, and the front has no movement and as said above, no tamper fault (yet!)