Tapping in to clay drain + brick/block question

[jstrong]

Morning

Just excavated to reveal my sewer pipe with a view to tapping in to it for kitchen waste ie washing machine/dishwasher and sink.

Can I ask for tips on the most appropriate fittings/method for achieving this.

I was going to install a gully type fitting with trap?? Any advise on this would help. The sewer pipe is about 18" away from the wall where the waste pipes will emerge so would I use a Y piece on the sewer pipe with rubber sleeves and small length of pipe to bring nearer the wall and then a 90 degree bend with another small length of pipe connecting to a traptype gully???

The other thing is relating to brickwork. I am infilling a garage opening with brickwork and a window. I have started excavating the footing and have found that the house sits on 8" foundations yet I have been tipped off that I will need a 1M footing for the infill which will support just 15 courses of bricks and a window (existing lintel above will remain in place).

This depth seems excessive for such a light loading, any thoughts?

Obviously I will need to get BC involved once my notice goes in, just trying to get as much donkey work as possible done before submitting the notice.

One more thing, for the inner leaf of the infill would I need to use engineering bricks upto DPC level and then thermalights or can I use thermalights straight off the foundation?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I'd fit a 'Bottle' type gulley, these are easier to clean out should worse happen and gulley bung up. Also provides access for rodding the short section from gulley to sewer. Might be better to use a 90deg junction into the existing sewer, then short section of pipe to 45deg bend from the gulley.

Any new works have to comply with current regs. My house is Victorian, built straight off the ground. Rebuilt former outside W.C./coal shed to make it into habitable room (single storey), needed 1m deep footing for that!

 

[jstrong]

Thanks for the reply Hugh

Can you explain in laymans terms as to the best method!

I have excavated and found the sewer pipe and as it happens the point of excavation is at a join so presumably I need to cut either side of the join to insert my new plastic fitting?

What sort of fitting do I need (I've seen a tee shaped fitting with male and female end and also the same fitting with two female ends).
Would I be right in thinking that I need to get the fitting with one female end and slide a short piece of pipe on to the end so that I have to male ends which would connect to the clay drain with rubber sleeve fittings with jubilee clips?

If the above is correct do I position the new fitting so that it comes out of the existing drain horizontally or does it need to be angled up slightly?

If it is to be positioned horizontally would I then attach a short piece of pipe to bring it a bit closer to the side of the house and then put a 90 deg elbow on and then short pipe linking to bottle trap? Does the bottle trap prevent smells or do I need some sort of other fitting below the bottle?

I am competent at DIY just never messed about with drains before so sorry to sound a bit thick!!

Thanks in advance.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

God guide here: http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain15.htm Appreciate it covers inserting an inspection chamber but principles still the same but obviously you'll cut out a shorter length from the existing pipe. Be careful with the existing pipework, it is very fragile and the joints can fall apart with even slight movement.

For ease get a 90deg junction with 3 sockets, you'll need to insert a stub of plastic pipe of appropriate length in either end, then make gulley connection to branch socket. When working with plastic pipe, cut using a suitable saw, then chamfer cut ends with a file. Lubricate rubber seal in socket before gently pushing pipe home.

If possible i'd fit the junction with the branch angled upwards, then use an appropriately angled bend in the outlet of the bottle gulley to connect to the branch. Place some concrete under and around the gulley to hold it in place, and bed/cover all pipework with peagravel for protection.

Bottle gulley will have an integral trap, depending on manufacturer some have a removeable insert to allow rodding access to drain, others have a removeable plug for this purpose.

 

[jstrong]

Hugh

Thanks very much for your advice, I'll be off to Builder Centre in the morning!!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Probably be cheaper at Screwfix!!!!