help needed urgently please. my CH & HW system (Potterton 60) seems to continue heating and the water is lava hot, and boiler switches on repeatedly every few minutes. the CH seems fine and under control, but HW continues even when the timer/programmer (Potterton EP2002) is switched off. the only way to stop this volcanic heat is to switch the electricity switch of central heating next to the EP2002. i can DIY TVs, VCRs, House electrics, but never knew a thing on central heating. the cylinder thermostat seems to function alright (anyway irrespectively, the system should shut off if the programmer is selected on off irrespective of the hotness of cylinder water). it seems as if there is continued ON status from the timer EP2002 or else. i was goining to buy a new timer of the same model, so to only change the panel on the same backplate, rather than play with the so many wires attached to it. the kids already felt the heat of water, so i am currently controlling it from the main CH switch (not the programmer, whic whether swithed ON or OFF the HW works continuously anyway- CH seems to respond to programmer appropriately). help help help
the heat is on -hotwater on continuously
- Thread starter DIYDOCTOR
- Start date
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ollski said:
as i said earlier i am not a central heating DIYer. i do not know what do you mean with 2X2 motorised valve. but my system has two valves in the airing cupboard both electric and the pump, the cylinder and the boiler. i hope this helps
s plan
the hot water zone valve is stuck open by the sound of it
the hot water zone valve is stuck open by the sound of it
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Our reader might not be helped a lot yet.
Ok you have two valves. One is connected to the hot water cylinder, one to the radiators. You shouldbe able to follow the pipes to tell which is which.
Thw way these valves work is to turn the boiler ON once they're open. They switch directly between mains live and boiler, not through the timer or thermostat. So it sounds like your valve on the HW is stuck open. Sometimes it's the motorised head/actuator which sticks, sometimes the brass bit with the water in.
If you can get the head off the valve you'll see the flattened shaft which connects the two and you may be able to decide which is faulty. If you "go there", let us know what you fnd.
Ok you have two valves. One is connected to the hot water cylinder, one to the radiators. You shouldbe able to follow the pipes to tell which is which.
Thw way these valves work is to turn the boiler ON once they're open. They switch directly between mains live and boiler, not through the timer or thermostat. So it sounds like your valve on the HW is stuck open. Sometimes it's the motorised head/actuator which sticks, sometimes the brass bit with the water in.
If you can get the head off the valve you'll see the flattened shaft which connects the two and you may be able to decide which is faulty. If you "go there", let us know what you fnd.
ChrisR said:
ChrisR, you are a STAR. i have just read your advice. it sounded great. obviously it would have helped a novice to tell which valve is for HW the one attached to the cylinder or to the main pipes. nevertheless, once i got the clue from you to where to look for the problem, i investigated systematically (as i would in my work (human DIY, no do not go far, i mean a medical doctor, in fact consultant paediatrician!!) to find out. i would find out by checking which pipe heats when i switch it on. i did not need to do this as i first tested the manual overrides in each valve. one moved under smooth resistance and went back to spontaneously to its original position. the valve attached to the cylinder, on the otherhand, its manual over ride moves freely in any direction and into any position!!
i opened this valve, not knowing how exactly i will find out whether it is definitely defective. i would not do any thing risky. i carefully investigated it planning to buy the electric acuator head anyway for trial if i ahve no answers. then suddenly when i shook it gently for loose parts, a plastic broken piece came off. i then checked the brass bit attched to the pipe as you suggested to ensure it is not also jammed. it moved easily in both directions. i am now goining back to check the other valve (identical) for were the broken plastic piece is supposed to be. i am sorry that here were this episode ends. not to keep you susspended, but because it is to late to find a place to buy the actuator tonight. next episode will be tomorrow. i promise, and owe it to you to let you know the actual outcome. i am farly confident that you are right. i was convinced with what you said because i did not know that the valves can switch the HW directly even if the timer/programmer is on OFF position for all.
I think that he is trying to tell you that the next time you need a doctor, don't go to a professional, instead go to a DIY site.
If I cannot fix myself I would go to a doctor.
Perhaps he can help me now. I have had a throat problem for about 5 days, I feel fine its just that I cannot make much sound at all. My friends say they prefer me like this.
I thought that it would have fixed itself but its still just as bad. I can only talk on the internet not when I am out and about.
Do you think that I need some stem cells?
Tony
PS The faulty motorised valve is like motorneurone disease, the controller tells the valve to close and it does not react.
I am surprised the doctor had difficulty in guessing the hot water valve was connected to the hot water cylinder.
Presumably he would know that the left foot is ( usually ) connected to the left leg. Unless some cowboy doctor had swapped them over of course, to suck air in through his teeth and say " you need some more work done here, it could be a bit tricky to sort this out, it might cost you a few hundred!"
If I cannot fix myself I would go to a doctor.
Perhaps he can help me now. I have had a throat problem for about 5 days, I feel fine its just that I cannot make much sound at all. My friends say they prefer me like this.
I thought that it would have fixed itself but its still just as bad. I can only talk on the internet not when I am out and about.
Do you think that I need some stem cells?
Tony
PS The faulty motorised valve is like motorneurone disease, the controller tells the valve to close and it does not react.
I am surprised the doctor had difficulty in guessing the hot water valve was connected to the hot water cylinder.
Presumably he would know that the left foot is ( usually ) connected to the left leg. Unless some cowboy doctor had swapped them over of course, to suck air in through his teeth and say " you need some more work done here, it could be a bit tricky to sort this out, it might cost you a few hundred!"
hello again. the final episode. sorry it took a while to get the Myson MPE222 actuator (not whole valve) at the local plumbing centre. the actuator online would cost at least £43 including P&P. i got it from the local centre at trade price for £33. it was fairly straitforward passing its cable through the wall to then back again into the connection box. if i could figure out an artery from a vein despite their similar colours and while soaked in blood, i should be able to sift through the mesh of wires in the box. replaced a wire at a time mission accomplished. before tiding all the wires back into the box, testing proved success!!
of course thanks are to all of you especially KEVPLUMB and CHRISR whose advice was sound.
another query. as my heating was off for a while i noticed that the pump attachments at the pipes are fairly wet with water dribble. another lock was also dribling very tiny water. my house is only 5 years old from new!is this acceptable and can be ignored or it needs a plumber to sort it out. as i would not dare touch those pipes. this is one thing that i DIYNOT. doing so may look like tickling the aorta with a surgical scalpel, i mean surgical scalpel, the one that if left on a pieace of cheese it will cut through in no time.
thanks once again.
of course thanks are to all of you especially KEVPLUMB and CHRISR whose advice was sound.
another query. as my heating was off for a while i noticed that the pump attachments at the pipes are fairly wet with water dribble. another lock was also dribling very tiny water. my house is only 5 years old from new!is this acceptable and can be ignored or it needs a plumber to sort it out. as i would not dare touch those pipes. this is one thing that i DIYNOT. doing so may look like tickling the aorta with a surgical scalpel, i mean surgical scalpel, the one that if left on a pieace of cheese it will cut through in no time.
thanks once again.
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