Thin cracks between plasterboards - how to repair?

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Just moved into a house and want to start decorating. A couple of the rooms have straight verticle cracks in the walls where the plaster boards join together and I don't know how to fix them. The cracks expand if pressure is applied to the walls. Any tips?
Thanks
M
 
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Do you know how the plasterboards are fixed, are the mechanically fixed such as screwed in to stud work or are they fixed using adhesive such as the dot and dab method?
How are the boards finished off are they plastered or are the joint taped and filled out?

If boards are screwed then you need to get some more screws in them to secure the board first.
If dot'n'dab a little more work is required you may need to break in to the board where it is loose and get some adhesive in that area and repair.
Or even remove the boards and refit or replace.
You could then rack out the joints and tape and blend and feather in or just tape over cracks and over-skim the whole wall.
You may also get away with joint taping and filling out with easi-fill.
 
If dot'n'dab a little more work is required you may need to break in to the board where it is loose and get some adhesive in that area and repair.

PBOD - all good advice.
I'm curious on the bit above - is it possible to correct D&D with screw-in fixings?
E.g. by finding where the dabs are (by slightly less hollow sound) and drill here to apply screw-in fixings to tighten up.
I've not tried this, but wondered if in your experience it would work.
 
The correct way to fix plasterboard isn't D&D. You make lines down the wall with adhesive to replicate battens. You make sure these lines of addy are UNDER the edges of the board or they float - which is the problem the OP has.
 
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Is this a new build or someone’s idea of a renovation? It’ll most likely be dot & dab but if the board edges are moving when you apply pressure, they haven’t been properly supported; I’ll also bet 9.5mm board has been used instead of 12.5mm. Once cracks develop along the board joints, it needs a fair bit of work to rectify, raking out, re-taping & re-skimming/filling to sort it out; just applying filler over the top won’t work, it’ll just crack open again. If the boards have been poorly installed & haven’t been adequately supported, you’re probably better off ripping them down & starting again; or live with the cracks.
 
The correct way to fix plasterboard isn't D&D. You make lines down the wall with adhesive to replicate battens. You make sure these lines of addy are UNDER the edges of the board or they float - which is the problem the OP has.
That methods is known as Dot'n'Dab
You also adhere centre of board and seal across top and bottom.
 
I'm curious on the bit above - is it possible to correct D&D with screw-in fixings?
E.g. by finding where the dabs are (by slightly less hollow sound) and drill here to apply screw-in fixings to tighten up.
I've not tried this, but wondered if in your experience it would work.
Once the the adhesive has failed, I would personally replace rather than try to mechanical fix.
I would not say it was impossible to do and could work providing there is no movement in board after fixing. The longevity of the repair I would not guarantee.
 
The correct way to fix plasterboard isn't D&D. You make lines down the wall with adhesive to replicate battens. You make sure these lines of addy are UNDER the edges of the board or they float - which is the problem the OP has.
That methods is known as Dot'n'Dab
You also adhere centre of board and seal across top and bottom.

Dot and dab these days means random splodge's all over the shop. That's why it's called dot and dab. If you haven't seen it you don't do much work.
 
Dot and dab these days means random splodge's all over the shop. That's why it's called dot and dab. If you haven't seen it you don't do much work.
It may mean random splodges to you, but not to me and I guess for many others the term is used for the method you have described in a previous post.
If this is not the term you care to use, in what way do you describe or call this application?
I guess you use the term Drilyner basic system and everybody is aware of what you are doing. Dot'n'Dab is the on-site term used always has been and likely always will!
 
The correct way to fix plasterboard isn't D&D. You make lines down the wall with adhesive to replicate battens. You make sure these lines of addy are UNDER the edges of the board or they float - which is the problem the OP has.
That methods is known as Dot'n'Dab
You also adhere centre of board and seal across top and bottom.

Dot and dab these days means random splodge's all over the shop. That's why it's called dot and dab. If you haven't seen it you don't do much work.

It's called dot & dab because of the method. The dots are set up in much the same way as you would to screed a wall, the dots are to make the area plumb. The dabs are adhesive that should be placed in a uniform manner between the dots to support the board and stick it to the wall.
 
But they rarely do it right. Splodges everywhere and hope for the best. That's the real world that is.
 
Whatever way you describe it, it’s not been done properly. Splodges in the middle of the boards are not the specified method but many do just that; but they are fine as long as you have enough of them. What many fail to do is adequately support the boards around ALL the edges (& electrical boxes), hence the movement the OP has.

Attempting remedial work will be more trouble than its worth, probably better ripping down & starting again but this time doing it properly, whichever “dry line” method you chose; or do a proper job base coat & skim which is preferable.
 
But they rarely do it right. Splodges everywhere and hope for the best. That's the real world that is.

Do you have any statistics on this..? In my experience most do it the correct way, please don't judge others by the standrds you are used to.
 
What are you on about? I'm telling you what I've seen and told you the right way to do it. Go back to the start of the thread and read it this time. :rolleyes:
 

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