Thorn Olympic Boiler Wanted

T

tango2

Help! I need a Thorn Olympic Boiler type 20/35B or 20/35CF for spares or as a replacement. Will collect.

The cast iron heat exchanger core on my 20/35B balanced flue version has fractured and it's dripping away merrily....

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Many thanks
 
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Looks like you'll be needing a new boiler. Get a few quotes and expect to pay around £1500 if you want a decent job done.
 
You won't find an Olympic in a much better state than your existing one, as it's only a small output boiler you would be best advised to stick in a decent Combi ;)
 
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Excellent price DM seeing as it maybe gravity system.

Does the price indicate the quality of the job? Some of your own advice. . .

boiler 600 plus materials/upgrade to fully pumped still leaves a profit does it not?
 
6oo boiler
200 cylinder as prob same age as boiler
trvs, average 7 80
Splan pack 110
inhibitor/ cleanser 25
Additional pipework 50
Condensate stuff 25
Solder/flux/ cement/ bricks fittings etc 50.
Bengas would class you as a cowboy on working for whats left ;)
 
Excellent price DM seeing as it maybe gravity system.

Does the price indicate the quality of the job? Some of your own advice. . .

boiler 600 plus materials/upgrade to fully pumped still leaves a profit does it not?

Most heat only boilers like the Worcester 12 Ri will work on a sealed system.

Considerable extra work and risk of leaks or radiators bursting by upgrading to presurised.

Of course I agree its better to have a sealed system but that can be at considerable cost and those on limited means may not be able to afford it.

Tony
 
The system is about 35 years old, so I won't be spending about £1500 on it before selling the house next year.

The leak problem originally occurred last summer, so I removed the boiler, partially dismantled it, and attempted to get the crack in the heat exchanger core welded up. After three attempts to get it watertight, it seemed OK until recently, when the problem recurred.

The welding job I had done was messy, since it was not possible to preheat the affected casting with the unit only partially dismantled.

The proper procedure is apparently to cut a V-groove along the crack, preheat the casting to about 500 C, and to seam-weld into the V-groove using nickel welding rod. It was not done this way. It was done with the casting cold, and in places the weld did not amalgamate with the cast iron effectively. There was also a lot of unnecessary welding material each side of the crack.

While the system was drained last year, I removed the hot water cylinder, which is of the Primatic type, as the immersion heater was found to be difficult to remove with the cylinder in situ. The immersion heater had largely decomposed, and the resulting leakage currents via the on/off switch had resulted in pinholes appearing around the pipe entries due to galvanic action. These I repaired with solder. I also removed a total of 22lbs of lime scale from the cylinder via the immersion heater aperture, using a tyre lever to break up the large chunks. The cylinder is fortunately still OK! :)

The heat exchanger core is actually in two halves, linked by a manifold top and bottom. If I can't get a replacement casting, I will strip the unit down fully so that the affected casting can be preheated and the welding job done properly. This will entail grinding away the excess welding material and cutting the V-groove before presenting the casting for re-welding. The crack extends into the machined area where the manifold connects, so that this will have to be machined or ground to the correct profile after welding. That's why I would prefer to fit a replacement casting if possible.

BTW - I'm an engineer, not an MP!

Ciao!
 
Do you never buy anything new?

By coincidence I am shortly to have a Thorn Olympic type F 38/50 boiler for spares with an as yet not leaking heat exchanger. I dont know if its the same HE as yours though.

Actually the boiler is OK but has been condemned by an over zealous BG engineer as far as I can see for little more than the knob is missing. Its in NE London though.

I dont recommend it to you though as its past the age for keeping although where that boiler is fitted most of the block are still using them!

Tony
 
Hi Tony

Thanks for your reply re the 38/50F model.

It's a slightly different specification, but if you can email me details when it's available, I will call and make you an offer. That's definite.

The reason for the failure of the heat exchanger in my 20/35B unit was overheating of the casting due to limescale buildup, as we have very hard water in this area. That would not be a problem in the London area, so the heat exchanger in your unit will no doubt be OK.

I'm still on the lookout for a 20/35 model, though - any offers, anyone?

Dave
 
It may be a several days before its removed but could you email me from my profile and explain how you would aim to get it home?

Tony
 
Moderator 11 - My humble apologies. Thank you for drawing my attention to the forum rules.

Dave
 

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