Thoughts on how to tighten kitchen tap

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Our kitchen tap has been getting loose (when moving the spout) over the last few weeks.

This morning I tried to tighten it with a box spanner (as I have done a couple of times before) but realised that since the last time we did it, a boiler condensate pipe has been fitted, and is now blocking access to the rod (unsure of name) where the bolt is.

I figure the two ways round it are to remove the pipe that's in the way (it seems to have some sort of glue securing the joints), tighten the tap and re-add the pipe, or ask the boiler fitters to re-route the condensate pipe to allow access.

Given the boiler was fitted nearly 2 years ago, would asking them to slightly re-route the pipe to allow access be reasonable? Should access have been considered when fitting the pipe?

If removing the pipe how would I go about it? Should I expect much water to come out?

Any other thoughts on how to go about this? As may be obvious I'm a complete novice when it comes to plumbing!

Picture is below...
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The glue is Solvent weld, when applied it slightly melts both parts of the joint, think of it as soldering plastic. I would say the fitter took the easiest/ neatest route without consideration for what you want to do or replacing the tap at some point.
 
Plastic pipe is the condensate drain from the boiler, you may need a Gas Safe engineer to alter it as it can be classed as part of the flue. I would contact the installer and see if they're prepared to do anything as a Goodwill gesture, if not then bite the bullet and engage someone to move it. (They may even tighten the tap up whilst at it.)
 
Use a flexi-extension and the correct size socket to reach the tap nut.
Plenty of space there.
Then when you see that plumber again, use a baseball bat to convince him that not all jobs must be done by plumbers on £70/hour.
 
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Use a flexi-extension and the correct size socket to reach the tap nut.
Plenty of space there.
Then when you see that plumber again, use a baseball bat to convince him that not all jobs must be done by plumbers on £70/hour.

Cant say I've ever seen deepdrive deep enough to fit over the length of rod that the nut is attached to.

OP, can you not wiggle the tap spanner onto the rod by pushing the condensate to the side? The angle of the pic makes it look as if the spanner may slip by the condi pipe.
 
Ask your mechanic neighbour or friend.
There are deep socketed tools out there.
 
Oh I know ...... I used to use them on a regular basis and still do every now again and I have never come across any that are up to 100mm deep that would then fit over the threaded rod on a monobloc tap.
 
I have never come across any that are up to 100mm deep

'Go through' socket set... (Draper 16482, comes with three extensions, can all be joined)

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Avoid the really cheap 'Go through' sets, the extension bars aren't 'go through', which kind of defeats the idea. :eek:

What sort of clearance do you get on a monobloc, these sockets are of course larger?
 
Sorry, when I said I haven't seen any, I meant the standard deep drive sockets, on the end of a ratchet/extension.Everything else is just too bulky or isn't narrow enough to fit when the copper/flexi tails are there.

If there were ones that would fit, I'd have them in a sec. The long box tap spanners are the best I have found yet for the many tight/narrow spaces that mono bloc tap brackets, plates and fixings/bolts/nuts are shoehorned into, in amongst all the other pipes/traps/cabinet backs/sides that are in the way.
 
Now we're talking .... you can get 6 different sizes of brass nut so I'd need to see if I could make up a set. They can range from 8mm up to 13mm, tap size dependent.
 
You can simply buy a set of long reach monobloc sockets.
Rothenberger is one brand.
Any good plumber has them.
Only a few pounds. Basically box spanners
 

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