Tie rod end removal tool

[camerart]

Hi,
I have an MX5 NA and am considering changing the Tie rod ends.

I've seen different type of tool, some like a thumb and two fingers and some with wedges. Which one are preferred?
Cheers, Camerart.

 

[Burnerman]

Are you talking about the track rod ends, where they connect to the hub, Mr.C?
Wedge type tools tend to pierce the rubber boots - which isnt an issue if you are replacing them - so the best ones have the bolt that presses down on the screw thread, with the nut loose.
Personally I tend to thwack the joint with two hammers, which deforms the taper just enough for the joint to pop free.
John

 

[camerart]

Are you talking about the track rod ends, where they connect to the hub, Mr.C?
Wedge type tools tend to pierce the rubber boots - which isnt an issue if you are replacing them - so the best ones have the bolt that presses down on the screw thread, with the nut loose.
Personally I tend to thwack the joint with two hammers, which deforms the taper just enough for the joint to pop free.
John

Hi J,
Perhaps they're called tie rod ends, where they connect to the hub.

Do the arms ever brake when you thwack them? I've seen big hammers used, and I also used to thwack them.

I also wonder about a bit of heat?

I'll buy a finger and thumb type as you suggest.
Cheers,
C

 

[Burnerman]

Best not to hammer the track rod, there’s a high chance of bending it!
My technique is to back off the big track rod nut one turn, and then undo the nyloc nut that holds the track rod end taper in place. A whack on the hub where the taper passes through causes it to jump, 9 times out of 10. A time honoured technique which is sometimes the only way!
I like these mk 1 MX5s, had many a battle with the coil over springs, and the rear disc brake adjustment which is unique. The timing belt isnt bad either.
I found a fair bit of rust under the boot floor area (outside) which is worth treating.
Good luck with it!
John

 

[camerart]

Best not to hammer the track rod, there’s a high chance of bending it!
My technique is to back off the big track rod nut one turn, and then undo the nyloc nut that holds the track rod end taper in place. A whack on the hub where the taper passes through causes it to jump, 9 times out of 10. A time honoured technique which is sometimes the only way!
I like these mk 1 MX5s, had many a battle with the coil over springs, and the rear disc brake adjustment which is unique. The timing belt isnt bad either.
I found a fair bit of rust under the boot floor area (outside) which is worth treating.
Good luck with it!
John

Ok, thanks, C.

 

[Mottie]

First remove the track rod end nylock nut. Then loosen the adjustment lock nut. As long as you hit the arm in the green direction, it will just drop out. If you try knocking it down or in the same direction as the red marker, you’ll be banging away all day as the flexing will just absorb the shock. I’ve never used a puller or wedge in 45 years of doing these.

 

[camerart]

First remove the track rod end nylock nut. Then loosen the adjustment lock nut. As long as you hit the arm in the green direction, it will just drop out. If you try knocking it down or in the same direction as the red marker, you’ll be banging away all day as the flexing will just absorb the shock. I’ve never used a puller or wedge in 45 years of doing these.

View attachment 170125

Hi M,
Ok, I'll give it a go. ( I see now why I've had to bang away all day in the past )
Do you use heat or WD40?
C

 

[Mottie]

Never.

 

[camerart]

Never.

Hi M,
[ Back in 1/2 sec ] Remind me not to face you in a gun fight
C

 

[chainsaw_masochist]

Does NA stand for North America?

Anyway, you might find this tie rod replacement vid useful.

 

[Mottie]

Does NA stand for North America?

I think that was model versions. NA followed by NB, NC, ND etc

 

[Burnerman]

The early ones were 1.6 followed by a 1.8 (I think)......nice engines, neither very quick.
Along came the Eunos at some time, Jap import if I recall.
John