Tiling Shower-Bath area

Joined
27 Aug 2015
Messages
54
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,

I'm renovating my bathroom; this is my first real DIY project and wanted to just check about Tiling around the Bath-Shower area.

I was planning to apply the tile adhesive directly onto the plaster and then Tile - will this be sufficiently waterproof?

someone mentioned that aquapanel should be used and I don't know if i should add aquapanel to plaster and then tile..

I've added a picture of the bath/shower area as well.

Thanks..
Screen Shot 2015-10-05 at 14.41.34.png
 
Sponsored Links
I'm sure we'll be able to point you in the right direction. Need some more info if possible:

What type of tile are you using? Ceramic, Porcelain or natural stone?
What size tiles are they (including the thickness)?
Are the walls flat?
What substrate is under the plaster?
Where in conjunction with this picture is the shower?
What height are you running the tiles up to?

I can see from the pictures the last tiles were dotted and dabbed? very wrong. Is that why they needed to come down?
 
Last edited:
Hi Paul - Thanks,

Tiles are 7mm thick and size 250mm by 500mm. Tile Type is Ceramic
The walls are pretty flat but not completely 100% straight.

Running the tiles all the way up to the ceiling.

Previous tiles were there when i bought the house, believe they were put on about 20 years ago when the bathroom was fitted. tiles had started to come loose and i thought good opportunity to give the room a refresh.

There will be a shower - i've just got a shower mixer so the shower head will just connect into the taps.

not sure which substrate is under the plaster though..
 
Wow. quick reply :)

If the walls aren't straight enough to tile, you need to fix that before tiling. And you can use the Aqua-panel to do it.

My usual method:

1. Primer ALL the plaster with an acryllic primer such as BAL APD (reason to follow shortly).
2. Mark the walls and the boards for the screw holes. Drill them and plug them. (How you do it and what you use is up to you as that is all dependant on what's behind the plaster)
3. Using a slow setting Cement based powdered adhesive, spread the walls and the back of the board using a 6x6mm notched wall trowel. If the wall is too far out, consider using a bigger depth trowel. Put the boards up. Spirit level them to make sure they are straight and screw it to hold it in place while the adhesive sets.

This would be recommended for all the walls around the bath area. Where the boards meet, apply a very thin lay of adhesive over the top and flatten in either some BAL WP1 Tape. Scrape of any excess adhesive so that its smooth and flat, and leave to dry. 24 hours should be good.

Or, if the walls are straight enough to tile, you don't need the Aqua-panel.

Whether the Aqua Panel is used or not, TANK IT! (Safest option)

The bare plaster walls still need priming with the BAL APD. Not just in the bath and shower area, but everywhere you are sticking tiles. But if we just concentrate on the bath and shower area, get yourself some BAL WP1 Membrane and about some more of the BAL WP1 Tape.

1. Make sure that the bath is fixed into its final position and siliconed to the wall.
2. Fill it full of water to weigh it down so that you can cater for any dips.
3. Whether the area is your primed plastered walls or the Aquapanel, paint the membrane into all the internal corners and around the top of the bath. While its wet, flatten the WP1 Tape into it. Just above the bath, the WP1 tape needs to overlap the bath by about 3-4mm.
4. Paint the membrane over all the surfaces and the afore mentioned tape. Leave it to dry for another 24 hours just to be sure. You now should have a completely watertight bath and shower area.

Next job, tile it. Trowel the adhesive using a 6x6mm trowel. If the wall is slightly out and you need to keep it level, after spreading the wall, spread the back of the tile too.... DO NOT DOT AND DAB TO LEVEL TILES! The reason you primed the plastered walls is due to the size of the tile you have, you need to use a cement based adhesive. Not ready mixed as it won't dry properly. Problem is, without the primer, the cement adhesive reacts with the gypsum in the plaster, and causes crystallisation which prevents the adhesive from bonding correctly. So the APD is essential.

Anymore questions? I'm happy to answer them. (ps. Sorry about the CAPS with the dot and dab bit.... pet hate. anyone dots and dabs tiles should be shot!)
 
Sponsored Links
The wall on the right appears to be a solid wall - what about the other wall(s), are they solid or p/board studding? Knock on them.

Why do you think the previous tiles had "come loose"?

I doubt that Aqua Panel is necessary.

If the walls are not out of plumb by more than say 4mm then just make up the difference as you tile. The inside corners might not meet perfectly but you'll live with it after a week or so.

The outside corner in the pic appears to have a rusting metal angle bead - if you decide to change it then use a plastic angle bead.

Cover the bath tub with an off-cut of p/board or ply (or something), sit it on the tub rim - it will save the bath from any dropping tool or tile.

Running tile to the ceiling will create excessive condensation.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top