Timber fascia repair

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12 Apr 2015
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Manchester
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United Kingdom
I'm planning to get the whole exterior of my house repainted including the timber fascias and soffits.

On the ground floor, an end fascia piece has rotted as shown on the picture and needs to be repaired before any painting can be done. The fascia timber is 22mm thick and 200mm deep [7/8x8in]. The hole between the roof tile and what looks like a small piece of asbestos sheet needs to be filled in.

What would be the cheapest way of getting this done and is it possible to get a dry verge put in here to stop water running down the side once the repair has been made?


Regards

Eck
 
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Most painters would know how to change a piece of timber, it's just one cut section that needs to be nailed on.

A dry verge might look a bit cack there as it will need to be cut down and sat under the lead. A bit of sand and cement will see that verge looking back to how it was supposed to be.
 
Just use a piece of pressure teated timber. Will last for decades. Use a multi-trade worker, the day of the single trade worker has long past.
 
I'm not sure if it's a trivial job. If a thinner piece of wood was used, you would end up with a gap between the existing rendering and the edge of the wood, and I've not been able to find 22mm that's deep enough. The best I've managed to find is 18x215mm untreated. Any local tradesman will just go to the same timber place as I've been.

For the sand and cement, the existing gap with the old piece of mortar is about 40mm deep. Can that be filled in one go with sand and cement?
 
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Remove the old two-piece material carefully, and use it as a template for cutting out a one piece replacement in 22mm ply.
Pre paint the ply both sides and all edges before screwing it back up.
Silicone where it meets the render, & at the butt joint.
FWIW: that should be a mitre joint not a butt joint.

Get a small bag of sand and cement from any plumbers supplies, and fill the gap at the verge with two plugs of S&C - allow 24hrs for the first one to dry.
But first, pull out the fibre cement piece (the undercloak) to give a little more cover.

A piece of kick-out flashing will divert the roof water into the gutter.
 

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