Timber for joist noggins

[daggermark]

I have to fit some noggins where I had to cut the tongue off a (ply) board to gain access to the cavity.

I was going to use 45x95 c16. Is this ok? Are there any regs around the timber I should be using?

Edit: Actually I've got some leftover 45x70 I could use. Is that adequate?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

There are no regs. The regs as such spy to solid strutting, which is structural

 

[daggermark]

45x70 it is then. Thanks.

One more question. The edge of the board that is parallel to the joist had to be cut flush with a wall, as it disappeared underneath. Replacing this board would obviously leave a loose edge. As far as I can tell, my options are:

a) Try to hack the piece of board out that is under the wall, then try to slide a new piece of ply in so it sits on the joist. This seems very time consuming and may fail if the studwork drops when the board is removed.
b) Sister the joist that under the wall. This is tough to do 'properly' as there are pipes and cables preventing me from installing a full height and length sister.


Any alternatives/opinions? It is unfortunately quite a long length that would be unsupported - if it was just a metre or so I'd nail a piece of 4x2 to the joist and forget about it.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Assuming that the joists are parallel to the wall would it be possible to insert a longer piece of 45 x 70 so that it is under the floor boards at either end by about 150 to 200mm, hold it up to the undersides of the floor boards then screw down through the floorboards into the new batten (3 no pilot drilled and screwed at either end with something like 5.0 x 80mm screws - don't go too near the ends lest you split the batten) so that it is supported by the existing boards? Then you can fix to that. Not perfect, but may work depending on how good your floor boards are and how much weight you subsewuently end up putting on the edge of the floor.

A better solution if you can is to install two "noggins" between the visible joist and the one beneath the wall, but I realise that this might be impossible even with specialist tools such as an angle drill or angle impact driver

 

[daggermark]

Installing noggins between the visible joist and the one beneath the wall shouldn't be a problem - I was just worried this still wouldn't be enough. Although I guess if I put 3 screws per end per noggin, this should give me at least 300 lbs of shear strength. If I do that, and also throw in a couple of braces onto the adjacent board at each end, sounds like that should be plenty. It's a bedroom and that part of the room would likely forever be walking space.