Hi All, I never cease to be impressed with the knowledge in here as a lurker, so could anyone help a newb with a tricky one...
I live in a 3 bed detached, with a 1.5 meter alley-way between me and the neighbours. There are no windows or doors on this side of either property. This is my neighbours land and his legitmate access from front of house to garden. I have this on the other side but it isn't fouled by another property.
I have a aging Grade G non-combi in the Kitchen and the flu is directly behind it and straight through the external wall into the alleyway. Installed 20 yrs ago when I guess this was OK. Time coming to get a new boiler, but straight swap not an option due to flu boundary regs.
Having had BG and indies round to survey and quote, I have some options. Problem is they contradict a bit. I want to protect myself 110% and be sure before going ahead with anything that there will be no comeback on a future inspection or difference of opinion.
Loft... Please no lofts arent my thing, i'm heavy and it's only part boarded, the ceilings are already saggy and the apex has water tanks and a TV aerial making access real awkward.
Internal garage... This is the in front of the kitchen and makes the boiler move a straight line down the wall affair. And a gutter drain handy outside. If it went near the front it could vent straight up through a pitched roof, but between wall and garage door clearance there is only 11.5". BG said an ISIS(?) would fit in that gap but I would love to know if there are other options. Could go back deeper into the garage to avoid the door, but then it's a good couple of meters with 2 or 3 turns to get back out the pitched roof.
Bathroom (upstairs).... same side of house as current, but presumably tgoing up and out the roof. A definate maybe but it would be a case of dodging the boiler when walking into the bathroom.
Stay put... It's been suggested the existing flu hole could be used, but then pipe it up the outside wall some distance and use an anti-pluming kit, and depending on distances could maybe just get it pointed back over my rear boundary.
I understand the manufacturer boiler specs determine what flu options are possible and over what distances, but I don't have a library of manuals to hand
Anything anyone could share with me for the above scenario around a) slim boiler options b) what kind of flu runs and distances can be achieved with the right kit c) how far away can a drain be? front of garage has one, but how would the loft or bathroom find one, can it use the internal soil stack? are there any regs around drain runs or can any old plumbing effort get you there?
Thank you so much!!!
I live in a 3 bed detached, with a 1.5 meter alley-way between me and the neighbours. There are no windows or doors on this side of either property. This is my neighbours land and his legitmate access from front of house to garden. I have this on the other side but it isn't fouled by another property.
I have a aging Grade G non-combi in the Kitchen and the flu is directly behind it and straight through the external wall into the alleyway. Installed 20 yrs ago when I guess this was OK. Time coming to get a new boiler, but straight swap not an option due to flu boundary regs.
Having had BG and indies round to survey and quote, I have some options. Problem is they contradict a bit. I want to protect myself 110% and be sure before going ahead with anything that there will be no comeback on a future inspection or difference of opinion.
Loft... Please no lofts arent my thing, i'm heavy and it's only part boarded, the ceilings are already saggy and the apex has water tanks and a TV aerial making access real awkward.
Internal garage... This is the in front of the kitchen and makes the boiler move a straight line down the wall affair. And a gutter drain handy outside. If it went near the front it could vent straight up through a pitched roof, but between wall and garage door clearance there is only 11.5". BG said an ISIS(?) would fit in that gap but I would love to know if there are other options. Could go back deeper into the garage to avoid the door, but then it's a good couple of meters with 2 or 3 turns to get back out the pitched roof.
Bathroom (upstairs).... same side of house as current, but presumably tgoing up and out the roof. A definate maybe but it would be a case of dodging the boiler when walking into the bathroom.
Stay put... It's been suggested the existing flu hole could be used, but then pipe it up the outside wall some distance and use an anti-pluming kit, and depending on distances could maybe just get it pointed back over my rear boundary.
I understand the manufacturer boiler specs determine what flu options are possible and over what distances, but I don't have a library of manuals to hand
Anything anyone could share with me for the above scenario around a) slim boiler options b) what kind of flu runs and distances can be achieved with the right kit c) how far away can a drain be? front of garage has one, but how would the loft or bathroom find one, can it use the internal soil stack? are there any regs around drain runs or can any old plumbing effort get you there?
Thank you so much!!!