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I am thinking of tinting my windows on my car what should i use
a. the stick on type
b. spray type
a. the stick on type
b. spray type
tinting car windows
- Thread starter BOB D.O.L.E
- Start date
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What was the point in this post this is a (DIYNOT FORUM) NOT A (EXPERT.NOT) FORUM really bugs me these type of posters Do you not think i would think this in the first place i want to do a diy job hence the name diynot.com.
Why don't you paint the windows on the outside with some black Hamerite? Including the windscreen. If you use a roller I think the finish would be quite good.
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Great idea freddy sounds good to me, i got some of that white stuff in a tin with a big hairy dog on it i think it says gloss do yea think that will do.
Sounds good, post some pics when your done. 
the reason why i said find an expert is,
i have seen pictures of people trying to tint their windows and to be blunt it looks bloody awful and thats not just my opinion its apparently very hard to do on a curved screen and making sure all air bubbles are smoothed out,check out a few car forums and no doubt it would off been mentioned about its best not bothering with.it has on the forums i use.
because of the cost of aquiring a decent tint and then making a CARP job of it thus making the person pay out more of there hard earned on rectifying the cock up.
hey its up too you what you do its your time and money personally you do what you want,
some of the local shops to me will charge about £200 to do the whole car.AND ITS GAURNTEED.
Weird thing is, bob doesn't have a car he's still riding his moped. Maybe he wants the visor tinted? White hammerite would look the dogs danglies Bob.
Never used the spray type but I imagine getting a consistent finish over a large area would be very tricky.
I've used the stuff on three or four cars when I was a lad. The basic stuff is like sticky back plastic film, and is ideally a two person job otherwise you wind up sticking it to itself, the table, the floor and everything but the window.
Tools : You will need a some soft rags - lint free ideally, a couple of fairly stiff squeegee type blades (old credit cards are ideal!), a plant mister bottle or similar fine water spray, a couple of very sharp very thin blades like box cutters or scalpels, some scissors and a hairdryer - one with a minimum of blow over a wide area is best.
You'll also need a well lit location with a minimum of dust and wind. Dont apply during the blazing sun because the stuff will dry on the window before you can adjust it and work the bubbles out.
First, cut yourself a set of templates for the windows (I used newspapers) and get them as exact in shape as you can. Allow about 5mm around the edges for opening windows. Cut the film using the templates, and be sure to get the insides/outsides of the film the right way around!
Second, remove the door trims and any other rubber trim around the inside edge of the glass. Clean the window well as any dirt smudges or dust will soon be sealed in.
Third, wet the window with the spray from the mister bottle. Wetting the surround is also advisable in case the film accidently touches it.
Carefully, with your assistant, peel the backing off the film, wetting the inside of the film with water mist as you go.
Position the film on the window, and using the squeegee (or an old credit car wrapped in soft cloth to avoid scratching the film), start to squish the water out from between the film and the window, working from the middle outwards. Once you've got a good bit done, and are happy with the positioning, get your assistant with the hair dryer to warm the outside of the glass. Chase stubbon bubbles and creases away towards the edges and heat the outside of the glass where the bubble was whilst holding the film against the window from the inside using a pad of cloth. Fireproof fingers are also usefull here!
Trim the excess off the edges with the sharp blade. For opening windows its advisable to angle the blade and cut just inside the curve at the top edge of the glass. Some people reccomend sealing the top edge with clear nail varnish - I never tried that but had no troubles with peeling film anyway.
If you have glass curved in one axis, this method should be good enough. If you have glass curved in two axises then you have to get a bit inventive. The way I found worked was to use two hairdryers and by holding the film to the glass and heating until it stuck, over a shallow curve the film stretched just enough to make a good fit. Beyond that, stickers and decals to cover the creases!
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