tips for installing corrugated plastic roof - corolux

[squowse]

hi. putting a clear plastic roof on my new shed / workshop, the sheets should arrive today. I've used this stuff before and i remember it being a bugger to cut without shattering. Also the screws they supply are not very sharp and chew very easily. I ended up just using normal screws through the valley of the corrugation with a blob of silicone.

That was for a small lean to for my bike. I don't want to bodge this one so i've got their fixings which are a thick "washer" and hinged screw cap which i'll use with decent screws. I'll fix this through the ridge of the corrugations as it's meant to be. (less chance of leaks as no possibility of water ponding there presumably). The "washer" is thick enough to support the underside of the ridge of the corrugation.

I think that it won't like being drilled through the ridge with no support. So i'll have to mark them all and take them done for drilling? Not such a chore, but where the overlaps are it might be hard to get the holes in 4 sheets to register.

The literature suggests using a masonry drill at low speed which i find surprising. I don't need to cut the sheets on this one, but I did last time and the only thing i had success with was a serrated table knife heated up in a gas stove, quite hot. I'm wondering if i will need to do the same with the drill bit this time. Or maybe a blunt object would do as well if it's hot enough. I can't remember how i drilled the holes last time but i am sure i gave up putting them in the ridge of the corrugations in the heat of the moment. Thought - maybe the eaves filler would work well as a temporary support for drilling?

it's the 3" corrugated profile, standard grade 0.8mm thick, sheets are 762 x 2430. The roof is 5.3m wide by 4.7 long with a 5 degree fall. Timber 3" x 2" purlins.

Basically my question is does anyone have any tips for me?
Thanks
Roger

 

[^woody^]

A sharp [new] HSS bit , at high speed and with light pressure

Be careful if the sheets are cold as they are more brittle

You really should avoid drilling in the troughs, as water leakage is more likely in time

 

[squowse]

yes i've kept the sheets in the house next to a radiator. did most of the roof on saturday - i have been drilling with a masonry bit heated with a hot air gun. no cracks so far so i'm happy! last few to put on tomorrow. still can't work out why a masonry bit was specifed. maybe a wood bit could catch the edge of the hole. i agree that a sharp one would be best for that reason.

and i've been drilling in the ridge using the polystyrene eaves filler for temporary support.

rog

 

[^woody^]

A masonry bit was recommended as a normal drill bit may go through too quick, but without cutting the full diameter hole, and then the plastic snags in the flute and then the bit cracks the sheet as it tries to turn.

Not pressing too hard prevents this

The tip of a masonry bit actually removes the full hole width as it goes through

 

[daveyba]

Make sure you get the correct spacing for your purlins or the roof will not last 5 mins

 

[tro1]

I had to cover an erea 5m x 8m with over laps. Here is how i did it.
Tried all the posted methods and failed.
My method. Use normal drill bits.
3mm 5mm 8mm 10mm
Start with a pilot hole 3mm forward rotation.
Next use 5 mm forward or reverse rotation.
Next use 8 mm reverse rotation.
last use 10mm reverse rotation.
All soounds bonkers but the drill heates the plastic and cuts through like butter. use the baterry driver weight to push through the hole. A battery drill of less than 1.7 kg may need a little pressure but not much.
I supported using the foam corrugated strips. Put them in place and drilled into them through the sheet. Used the screws with a plasteic washer with cap. Use angle grinder to cut shapes with normal grinding wheel.