Toilet to Stack connection

[dunc21]

My cast iron stack connection comes into the house at an upward angel - not horizontal and not vertical. Last time I installed the WC, I used an angled adapter and filled in around the adapter with quick drying cement - which was fine, except it cracked away from the adapter every so often - probably due to some movement.

This time I was thinking of packing out with some rag/newspaper and then finishing off with plumbers mate - is flexible and doesn't fully set so maybe would not crack away. Any views on this?

raises other questions...

1) can it be painted over?
2) is it mate or mait?
3) is there a better way?

 

[Bahco]

The better way would be to replace your old stack with a plastic one.
You could then run it up vertically and connect your WC properly.
Not beyond a diyer if he is advised correctly of regs etc

 

[dunc21]

Thanks BAHCO

But I am working around existing decoration and fixtures - If I replace the stack, it will take a lot of work (It also passes through a flat roof, through boxing and through a floor of an outhouse), instead of the leasurely day (half day if lucky) I planned.

I just want to plug it into the existing stack and finish in the best/most appropriate way.

 

[brumylad]

you can buy a completely flexible pan connector called a multikwik, or rigid designs with offsets, angles and extensions. One end pushes onto the porcelain and the other end pushes into the bore of the iron pipe.

You could finish around this fitting with expanding foam cut to shape or a weak mortar mix.

 

[ChrisR]

All bogs used to have their exhaust at 14 degrees, which is about 1 in 4. There are standard connectors made at this angle.

 

[dunc21]

Thanks for the replies.

I have already bought an angled plastic connector/adaptor which I believe to be the correct angle - it was really just the finish I was asking about - whether to cement or plumbers mate, given that there will be a gap between the outside of the connector ant the metal stack pipe.

Mind you Brumy's suggestion of expanding foam is another possibility. Is it easy to cut smoothly afterwards?

Can plumbers mate and/or expanding foam be painted over?

 

[ChrisR]

Pan connectors are available which push straight into cast iron or plastic pipe. They do not leak from there. Neatest if you chop the pipe off. Angle grinder or decent hacksaw is ok for CI.

Not sure where you want to put goo afterwards.
I hate plumbers mate - it has no resislience at all. It does dry up enough to separate if there's any movement.
Building foam is a different animal altogether. It sticks extremely well to clean surfaces, gives if required but is surprisingly strong in a mass. If you use it coming out of the can/gun slowly, you get finer bubbles. Easy to trim after it's set, then a little flexible decorator's filler smooths it off. It's waterproof, & easy to remove if you need to. Can be a pain if you get it where you didn't want it while it's wet, but there is a gun cleaner/solvent (acetone I think) which cleans it up very well. It says wear gloves - but I use it to get stuff off my hands..

 

[dunc21]

Thanks Chris - foam it is then. I already have some that I didn't use on another project.

The bit I was referring to is the gap between the end of the stack pipe to the plastic connector. I know the connector has a rubber flange which seals the pipe, but it still leaves a gap of about 3/4 inch.

Rough drawing, but...

[/img]

 

[dunc21]

oops try that again

 

[dunc21]

Ok, I give up - picture not important anyway. Why can't we just copy and paste a bitmap?

 

[brumylad]

I see your drawing ! just copied the URL into the address bar and its there. The cast socket is just like that in my own bathroom so I know that you mean. I'm not sure what is plugged into my gap, it's been painted over.

Post a pic of the finished job if you get time.